From the Sector

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Korean subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI KOREA INC., will participate in the Preview in SEOUL exhibition in Seoul, Republic of Korea this month (23rd - 25th of August 2023).

SHIMA SEIKI will show its SWG061N2 compact WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine which can produce a wide range of WHOLEGARMENT® items in their entirety without the need for linking or sewing. The SWG-N2 series “Mini” range is suited to the production of small knit items and accessories such as gloves, socks, hats and scarves as well as cozies, shoe uppers, bags, card cases, glasses cases, smartphone covers and other personal items. The N.SVR093SP is a conventional shaped knitting machine featuring a loop presser bed that yields novel fabrics with special inlay patterns that are produced by inserting yarn into knit fabric in a weave fashion, offering new and exciting possibilities in hybrid knit-weave textiles. Both machines will be shown knitting such items as bags and sporting goods to demonstrate the capability of current knitting technology for producing non-apparel items.

SDS®-ONE APEX design system and APEXFiz® subscription-based design software will also be on display. Both support the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. Virtual samples can furthermore be used in e-commerce to gauge consumer demand before production begins. Feeding that information back to production and combined with on-demand WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology, production can be adjusted to optimize inventory and minimize leftover waste. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

The KARL MAYER GROUP is intensifying its business activities in Turkey and is setting up a subsidiary in Bursa. The opening of the new site is planned for October 2023.

The company's success on the market to date has been made possible to a large extent by its close and long-standing cooperation with Erko, the KARL MAYER GROUP's regional representative. The two companies have been cooperating for more than 50 years and see further positive market development in Turkey in the medium to long term.

In order to exploit and shape the potential, they will sharpen the focus of their competences in the Warp Knitting and Warp Preparation Business Units: Erko A.S. will focus on sales, taking advantage of its long-standing regional network. The KARL MAYER GROUP will take over the after-sales service and offer customers a link to the Care Solutions world of the group. Customers benefit from next-level support with many innovative solutions, especially digital ones, for meeting the challenges of our time. At the same time, they can continue to build on the tried and trusted.

The headquarters in Bursa covers just under 1,000 m² on three levels. It offers space for service, an academy with textile samples and a training machine, a workshop for minor repairs and a warehouse for the spare parts business. Located in the top-selling region in Turkey, it is also designed as a contact point for customers.

Thanks to its strong position on the Turkish market, the KARL MAYER GROUP intends to support the companies here, most of which are family-run, in the forthcoming generational changes, and to provide the next generation with specialist support and qualifications.

In the first half of 2023, Rieter recorded a significant increase in sales of 22.2% to CHF 758.2 million, despite some cancellations or postponements of deliveries as a result of the earthquake in Türkiye. Cyclical market downturns in the individual market segments, which were already apparent in the second half of 2022, led to an order intake of CHF 325.0 million (-62.6%) in the reporting period, lower than in the corresponding period of the previous year.

Order intake in almost all regions was characterized by the reluctance to invest in new machines. Only in China did order intake increase due to investments by spinning mills in improving their local competitiveness. In addition, some customers held back pending investment decisions and waited for the innovations presented at ITMA in Milan in June 2023. At the same time, demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts declined due to the global market downturn.

On June 30, 2023, the company had a high order backlog of around CHF 1 100 million (June 30, 2022: around CHF 2 100 million). This therefore extends into the year 2024. As in the previous year, cancellations in the reporting period were around 5% of the order backlog, also impacted by the effects of the severe earthquake in Türkiye.

In the first half of 2023, Rieter posted a profit of CHF 25.2 million at the EBIT level, with an EBIT margin of 3.3% (first half of 2022: loss of CHF -10.2 million) and a net profit of CHF 13.3 million (first half of 2022: loss of CHF -25.2 million).

“Next Level” performance program planned
The challenging market situation over the past two years was marked by severe disruptions in the global supply chain in conjunction with rising material, energy, labor, and production costs. The current global demand for textile products remains at a low level. To increase long-term value for customers, employees, and shareholders, Rieter, as technology leader, is planning a performance program called “Next Level”. The goal of the program is to strengthen sales excellence, sharpen customer focus, improve cost efficiency in production and optimize fixed cost structures. The one-time cost of the program is anticipated to be around CHF 45 to 50 million, which will have an impact on the second half of 2023. Most of the program initiatives will be implemented before the end of 2023 with a view to achieving an expected impact from as early as 2024. With these measures Rieter is aiming to reduce operating costs by some CHF 80 million per year.

The program includes provisions for the net reduction of around 300 positions throughout the Group in relation to overhead functions. The possibility of further market- and volume-related adjustments in the order of 400 to 600 positions cannot be excluded. At the end of June 2023, Rieter had a global workforce of 5 555 employees.

Outlook
Given the economic situation and the ongoing cyclical market weakness, Rieter continues to expect below-average demand for new equipment in the coming months. A revival is not expected until the fourth quarter of 2023 at the earliest. Rieter also believes that demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts will not recover until later in 2023.

For the full year 2023, Rieter expects an EBIT margin of around 5 to 7% (including positive special effects of less than 2%) and sales at the previous year’s level of around CHF 1.5 billion.

The EU's planned ban on the entire group of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) would endanger many industrial processes, states VDMA Textile Machinery. Textile manufacturing would be affected twice – by missing important chemicals for technical textile production and by the lack of indispensable textile machine components. The latter would affect the whole supply chain from textile machinery manufacturers and its suppliers to the textile industry in the EU.

Solid PFAS parts are widely used in textile machinery production, especially where extreme conditions prevail. Verena Thies, Managing Shareholder Thies GmbH & Co. KG, explains: “Our textile dyeing machines are world leaders and set standards in efficiency and sustainability. They work under pressure at temperatures of up to 140° C using highly acidic, highly basic and/or oxidative or even reductive chemicals. This is precisely why PFAS is needed, for example, in seals and rings, flaps as well as valves for a long-lasting and high-quality machine concept – because there are no alternatives with qualitatively equivalent properties. In addition, PTFE semi-finished products enable a sliding and gentle contact with the textile fabric in ecologically important techniques in the transformation of textile wet finishing."

PTFE and also FKM are fluoropolymers (fluoroplastics and fluoroelastomers), a group within the broad PFAS range of about 10,000 substances which would be banned for production, use and sale in the EU. They are high-tech materials, and as so-called "polymers of low concern" are not a danger to the environment, according to the OECD. Furthermore, these components are installed inside a machine and exchanged or disposed of properly. PFAS such as PTFE and FKM must be exempted from the ban, demands the VDMA in its position paper.

"In this way, the association also supports the approach taken in Great Britain. With the 10,000 substances, everything is lumped together, although the various PFAS groups are very different," warns Dr Sarah Brückner, Head of VDMA Environmental Affairs and Sustainability. "We should take our cue from the UK and look at the substance groups in a differentiated way."
Apart from several types of dyeing machines, PFAS components are indispensable in textile drying machines (e.g., conveyor dryers, tumblers and stenters) and damping machines. They are also used in fully automatic chemical dispensing systems and pressure vessels for thermochemical treatment of textile recycling material, heat recovery systems and wastewater treatment technology. This means that a lot of machines needed for a sustainable textile production would be affected by the PFAS ban.

VDMA Textile Machinery will take part in the ongoing EU public consultation. The association will describe indispensable key functionalities and conditions of use in the textile machinery sector as well as the consequences for the companies and the customers in the EU if the ban is imposed. The consultation ends on September 25, 2023, and VDMA urged its members affected by the planned restriction to participate in the consultation at an early stage. This is the only way to ensure that the broad scope of the mechanical and plant engineering sector is represented.

adidas unveils its new campaign to celebrate the FIFA Women’s World Cup Australia & New Zealand 2023™. The campaign is dedicated to next gen icons Alessia Russo, Lena Oberdorf and Mary Fowler and looks to drive more global attention for the game and inspire other young women and girls to follow in their footsteps.

Marking adidas’ most impactful Women’s World Cup campaign to date, the brand unites its global family of football legends and advocates of the women’s game. Headlined by a series of fast-paced films, the campaign welcomes a star-studded line up of David Beckham, Leon Goretzka and Ian Wright, actor and football fan, Jenna Ortega, as well as Argentina’s World Cup hero, Lionel Messi. They come together to celebrate the skills that Russo, Oberdorf and Fowler are renowned for, from vision and interception to power, creativity and accuracy.

The films are part of a new creative proposition from adidas for the upcoming tournament. ‘Play Until They Can’t Look Away’ aims to platform and showcase some of the world’s greatest football players on the biggest stage – whose skills and passion for the game demand global attention and support.

Set against the soundtrack of SL2’s iconic song, On a Ragga Tip, fans see World Cup winner, Lionel Messi, alongside Mary Fowler, guiding both viewers and Jenna Ortega across the world to Fowler’s home country of Australia , with preparations for the biggest women's sporting moment underway.

Meanwhile, David Beckham and Ian Wright, alongside his granddaughter, Women’s Arsenal FC player, Raphaella Wright-Phillips, are unable to look away in a supermarket as Russo spectacularly weaves her way through the narrow aisles, in her own creative fashion. Finally, Goretzka is expertly interrupted while bowling as Oberdorf whizzes around an arcade, powerfully intercepting balls in each scene to achieve a high score of her own.

Paying respect to those who have gone before, the films are also filled with subtle references to memorable moments that football super fans will revel in, including shirt numbers, iconic tournament balls, plus much more.

Finishing machinery specialist Monforts has secured a number of major orders from textile manufacturers in Central and South America recently, and was pleased to welcome a high number of visitors from the region to its stand at ITMA 2023 in Milan from June 8-14.

Among new orders are those for three Montex stenters delivered to the AustralTex Group in Argentina and a further Montex range to denim manufacturer CIT in Brazil. Guatemala’s Global Textiles placed an order for its second Montex stenter, while Mexico’s Zentrix ordered its third and Avante, also in Mexico, has opted for its sixth.

Elsewhere, orders have also been placed for the delivery of three new Montex stenters to one of Pakistan’s major corporations, as well as a new Thermex dyeing range to nonwovens manaufacturer Orsa in Italy. Further orders – both for new machines and retrofit modules – are now anticipated following ITMA 2023, which attracted over 111,000 visitors to Milan.

“Visitor footfall at ITMA 2023 was well beyond the company’s expectations, and we were especially pleased at the constant number of visitors from South American companies, as well as from Asia and Europe,” said Monforts Marketing Manager Nicole Croonenbroek. “We were able to provide them with detailed information about our portfolio of machines and technologies digitally and fielded an unprecedented number of serious enquiries, many of which promise to turn into new business.”

Monforts Montex stenters for processes such as drying, stretching, heat-setting and coating, she added, are already the industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing a number of advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and resource savings. Other key technologies in the Monforts portfolio include relaxation dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and Monfortex compressive shrinking ranges.

Montex®Coat
“We were also very pleased with the interest in the Montex®Coat, the latest addition to our range of technologies, which we displayed in Milan,” Croonenbroek said.

The Montex®Coat can serve a very diverse number of markets and enables full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments, as well as solvent coatings. Knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can also all be accommodated with this system. It provides the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric run to the next, without compromising on the economical use of energy or raw materials.

Many refinements have been made to the Montex®Coat in the past few years, resulting in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics. A number of advanced new improvements were introduced in Milan, including automatic edge limiters for immediately adapting to new coating widths and a new and simplified hand-held control device. These save considerable time in setting up the machine and ensuring consistent production.

The Montex®Coat unit displayed in Milan was sold to Vietnamese company Thai Tuan during the show.

From June 8 to 14, 2023, the leading international trade fair for textile machinery manufacturing ITMA took place in Milan, Italy. In total, over 111,000 guests visited the trade fair. Groz-Beckert was able to present its innovations to more than 7,000 customers and business partners, as well as welcoming many other visitors to its booth – including over 280 students.

An international audience gathered at the Groz-Beckert booth: guests came from 84 different countries. The majority of visitors came from Italy with just under 15 percent, followed by Germany with 14 percent, Turkey with 11 percent, India with 9 percent and the USA with 3 percent. For the first time, HR specialists were on hand at the Groz-Beckert booth to look after the student groups, offering the young people comprehensive insights together with experts from the Technology and Development Center (TEZ).

Groz-Beckert presented numerous innovations from its six product divisions Knitting, Weaving, Felting, Tufting, Carding and Sewing at the ITMA. One focus of the innovations was on the topics of efficiency, process stability and sustainability. While the topic of sustainability was reflected in the products on the one hand, a separate area in the Groz-Beckert Gallery was dedicated to the topic on the other. Here it was shown what contribution Groz-Beckert is making to making its own productions and its sites sustainable.

From circular knitting machines and braiders via upgrades to digital solutions, Mayer & Cie. presented at ITMA 2023 a wide range of solutions that make circular knitting machines and braiding machines even more durable and thereby more valuable, for which the long-established firm received a positive visitor response.

From machinery manufacturer to solution provider
Three circular knitting machines – a Relanit 3.2 HS, an SF4-3.2 III and the OVJA 2.4 EM – and an MR-15/18C/Single Deck braiding machine took up about half the floor space of Mayer & Cie.’s ITMA stand. That reflected the weighting of the trade fair presentation. Along with high-tech circular knitting and braiding products the Mayer & Cie. focus at this year’s ITMA was on solutions that increase the value and durability of its machines. Including the digital platform knitlink, the new Control 5.0 machine control system, the camera-assisted error recognition system knithawk, almost a dozen upgrade kits for existing machines and the new oiler system Senso Blue RS.

Trade fair debut for Mayer & Cie. braiding machine
Mayer & Cie. also exhibited a braiding machine at ITMA for the first time. The company has integrated the braiding division at is Albstadt headquarters since 2019. “Braiding machines are a part of textile machinery,” said Mayer & Cie. Managing Partner Benjamin Maye, “but we nevertheless saw presenting the MR-15/18C/SD braider at ITMA as an experiment – and are satisfied with the result. The machine attracted a great deal of attention and we were able to make interesting contacts.”

A positive conclusion on ITMA 2023
Expectations of this year’s ITMA were moderate, Benjamin Mayer said. “War, high energy prices, inflation and recession are the signs of the times. Not even an ITMA is going to change that.” In addition, there had been serious problems with the issue of visas that had made it impossible for many potential visitors to attend the trade fair.

The Mayer & Cie. management therefore judged its success not by the general demand but by the positive visitor feedback. “For us that was an indicator of our future competitiveness,” said CEO Benjamin Mayer, “and we can definitely be sure of that with our developments.”

Just in time for ITMA 2023 in Milan, the flat knitting machine manufacturer STOLL has launched its new collection COLOR IN KNITTING. It holds a range of knitting techniques that were ideated for novel super fine machine gauges such as the E20.

In addition, STOLL reveals its internal design workflow, showcasing how digital software tools can speed up the design process. The core of this is k.innovation CREATE DESIGN. Through the utilization of STOLL’s jointly developed design software solution, k.innovation CREATE DESIGN, in collaboration with @KM.ON, the shape and structures of a garment, can be digitally created, allowing for its simulation before it is even knitted. The interfaces to various external 3D software tools, allow for a realistic representation of the garment facilitating faster design decisions. Once the virtual knits, made in the CREATE DESIGN software are ready for manufacturing, it will be send to a knitting technician for further processing in k.innovation CREATE PLUS, This significantly speeds up product development while reducing communication issues between designers and technicians.

Sustainability and responsible handling of precious natural resources were key factors driving the development of the latest trend collection, COLOR IN KNITTING. STOLL-knit and wear®, a technique that stands for seamless knitted garments, can play a significant role in reducing waste. In addition, fewer process steps are required in the production chain - with advantages for production efficiency.
For another highlight of COLOR IN KNITTING, the STOLL creatives have worked on imitating different yarn effects with knitting technology such as slub yarn optics or the simulation of fabrics like crepe de chine/crepe georgette

On the occasion of the 150th anniversary of STOLL, COLOR IN KNITTING features a selection of vintage pattern replicates. These patterns can be found in STOLL’s extensive sample archives in Reutlingen. It is impressive to learn that all these former fabric constructions can still be replicated today and also reinvented with todays machine features. This approach showcases the steep progression of technical advancements over the past 150 years.

STOLL´s latest trend collection culminates in the creation of an invaluable resource: the book “Color in Knitting: By Designers, for Designers”. This publication aims to cater to a diverse audience by presenting a comprehensive guide to designing with colors using various flat knitting technologies and will be presented in the chapter "Book release".

Spinnova has entered into a yarn development cooperation agreement with the Portuguese company Tearfil, where Tearfil will operate Spinnova’s R&D yarn-spinning line. The yarn-spinning line is intended for product development and will be located in Guimarães, Portugal at Tearfil's facilities.  

The rationale behind the yarn-spinning line is for research and development into using Spinnova's fibre in commercial scale yarn production and to streamline development work with industry partners.   
Spinnova has decided to locate the line in Guimarães in Portugal, at Tearfil’s facilities. Spinnova will benefit from the industry know-how of a strong partner and from the proximity of one of Europe’s most significant textile industry hubs in Portugal. This will improve Spinnova’s access to global textile markets.   

Spinnova’s yarn-spinning line will be installed at Tearfil's premises. The technology delivery and installations are expected to take place in the fall of 2023, and the spinning line is intended to be operational by the end of the year. Tearfil is responsible for the yarn-spinning line's operations, and Spinnova will use a part of the line capacity for its product development.  

In 2021, Spinnova announced that it would establish an R&D yarn-spinning line in Jyväskylä, Finland. The decision to change the location was made during the feasibility planning and discussions with potential partners. This change in location and operational model will slightly decrease the capital expenditure and will lead to lower operational expenses.  

The technology supplier for Spinnova's new spinning mill line is the Swiss-based company Rieter. Rieter is a leading supplier of systems for manufacturing yarn from staple fibers in spinning mills. The company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and man-made fibers and their blends into yarns in the most cost-efficient manner.