From the Sector

Wünsche Group, a global trading company, has announced enhancements to its supply chain operations through its ongoing partnership with TradeBeyond and adoption of the platform’s shipping visibility features. Before integrating TradeBeyond’s multi-enterprise supply chain platform in 2019, Wünsche Group faced challenges managing its complex supply chain, which spans more than 15 trading companies worldwide.

Building on its initial implementation, Wünsche is now deriving more value from TradeBeyond by implementing the platform’s advanced shipping visibility functionalities. Integrated with leading shipping information company Vizion, these enhancements offer comprehensive, real-time tracking of shipments from departure to arrival, covering all intermediary handling stages.

With shipment updates now available within dashboard views on TradeBeyond platform, all departments have access to the latest ETA updates, enabling them to adjust their strategies and activities based on real-time information. TradeBeyond’s shipping visibility enhancements allow the company to better manage delays by providing timely updates and enabling proactive management of transit times. The platform also streamlines communication across internal departments and with external partners, reducing the need for manual updates and check-ins.

Source Fashion, which takes place at Olympia London from 14th - 16th July 2024, continues to grow its presence of international exhibitors from new sourcing regions, including representation from southeast Asia and Africa.

The first Malaysian manufacturer to be represented at the trade fair is Kualesa Apparel. Kualesa started as a small seed of an idea, with a big ambition and an even bigger purpose. The brand has evolved from a simple set of values to a producer of great-looking and comfortable bamboo apparel that’s challenging fast fashion. Kualesa offer flexible MOQ’s ranging from 250 pieces to high production capacity of 50,000 pieces a month.

Fairs and More Inc from the Philippines returns to the show for a third time, bringing a pavilion of Filipino manufacturers and makers.

The show also welcomes its first ever Nigerian manufacturer, Beyond Clothing. Beyond Clothing is a garment factory, that specialises in crafting premium custom clothing, branded uniforms, corporate uniforms, and sublimated t-shirts. The range also includes promotional apparel, workwear, and PPE personal protective apparel for hospitals.

Returning to Source Fashion, Texpro Corp (a branch of Kassab Group) from Tunisia has grown rapidly to become a fully integrated apparel manufacturer certified with GOTS, BSCI, BCI, and OCS covering the complete production cycle focusing on sustainability through the process from fabrics to manufacturing, washing and dying. The company specialises in denim and flat garment manufacturing and the product portfolio includes casual dresses, shirts, jackets, pants and coats for men, women and kids. Texpro Corp are increasingly partnering with customers to ensure high consistent quality on the products and invest in innovation to help improve the environmental impact by consistently delivering responsibly produced products.

Visitors will also discover International Trade Center (ITC), who is returning with a pavilion that includes a debut area for Ghanian producers. With manufacturing in Ethiopia, Shints Co Ltd. is a global producer of high-performance outdoor clothing and camping equipment.

A strong contingency from Europe includes over 25 UK exhibitors, representation from France, Italy and Spain, and a selection of Portuguese exhibitors including Ttantos Textiles, FLM Textil, SMSenra and Lagofra.

Nearly 30 countries, including Peru, Cambodia, Pakistan, Hong Kong, Italy, and Greece will be represented. Large pavilions from China, India and Turkey have also been confirmed, as well as Tanzania, Madagascar and Nepal.

Supported by the European Commission, EURATEX and industriAll Europe have launched Stitch Together: a new Europe-wide two-year project to promote social partnerships in the European textiles and clothing Industry.

Stitch Together recognises the industry's need to adapt to global competition, eco-friendly practices, and technological advancements, while ensuring decent working conditions and quality social dialogue. The project will foster constructive dialogue between employer and trade unions in seven countries: Belgium, France, Italy, Poland, Portugal, Spain and Türkiye. Through seminars and capacity-building workshops, the project aims to enhance the capacity of social partners and empower them to engage in national and European-level social dialogues. Furthermore, the project seeks to increase social partner involvement in EU policy-making contributing to the development of sustainable and circular practices in the industry.

Fashion for Good launches the Sorting for Circularity USA report unveiling significant findings from the project. A first of its kind in the US, the report delves into consumer disposal behaviour, textile waste composition, and the potential for fibre-to-fibre recycling within the country. It provides insights for making informed decisions for further investments, infrastructure development and the next steps towards circularity.

The U.S. Textile Waste Landscape
The United States is a global leader in textile consumption and waste generation, positioning itself as one of the largest sources of secondary raw materials for post-consumer textile feedstock. Despite this, only 15% of the textile waste generated in the US is currently recovered, with 85% ending up in landfills or incinerators.

With the impending policies in the European Union and certain American states, alongside commitments from both public and private sectors to promote fibre-to-fibre recycling, there is a growing demand for infrastructure related to post-consumer textile collection, sorting, and recycling.

Addressing Data GPS
In the pursuit of establishing a functional reverse supply chain and the necessary infrastructure, two critical areas lack data  – consumer disposal behaviour, and material characteristics of post-consumer textiles. The Sorting for Circularity USA project addressed these gaps through a comprehensive national consumer survey and waste composition analysis.

The survey revealed that 60% of respondents divert textiles, while 4% discard them, driven primarily by factors such as condition and fit. On the other hand, the waste composition analysis unveiled that over 56% of post-consumer textiles are suitable for fibre-to-fibre recycling, with cotton and polyester being the most prevalent fibre types, indicating a substantial potential for these textiles to be used as feedstock for mechanical and chemical recycling processes.

The project revealed a $1.5 billion opportunity for fibre-to-fibre recycling by redirecting non-rewearable textiles from landfills and incinerators to recycling streams. The report outlines growth strategies for the US textile recycling industry, emphasising enhanced financial value through efficiency improvements, increased commodity valuation, and policy mechanisms like extended producer responsibility schemes. Collaboration among stakeholders is crucial, including brands, government, retailers, consumers, collectors, sorters, recyclers, and financial institutions, to promote circularity, invest in research and development, and advocate for supportive policies and incentives to drive technological innovation. This redirection of textiles towards recycling underscores the substantial economic potential of embracing circularity in the textile industry.
 
There is an opportunity to build on these insights and assess the feasibility of different sorting business models and (semi) automated sorting technologies to create a demo facility suitable for closed-loop textile recycling. Ultimately, evaluating the commercial and technical feasibility of a semi-automated sorting process and identifying investment opportunities to scale solutions nationwide.

„Die IG Metall wollte in der zweiten Runde keinen Abschluss.“ Diese Bilanz zog der Vorsitzende des Tarif- und Sozialausschusses der Arbeitgeberseite, André Lang.

Bereits in der ersten Tarifrunde am 8. Mai 2024 sei den Arbeitnehmern ein konkretes Einstiegsangebot unterbreitet worden. Dieses beinhaltete u. a. Tariferhöhungen von 7,8 Prozent in 24 Monaten, eine überproportionale Steigerung der Ausbildungsvergütung und eine Erhöhung der Jahressonderzahlung. Die Zahlung einer Inflationsausgleichsprämie sei ebenso Teil des Angebotes gewesen und eine Fortführung der Altersteilzeitregelung mit höherer Flexibilität vorgeschlagen worden.

Die Aussprache dazu sollte in der zweiten Verhandlungsrunde erfolgen. Im Rahmen dieser habe die IG Metall stattdessen mit gänzlich neuen Forderungen nach einer Prozessvereinbarung eröffnet. Hierauf reagierte die Arbeitgeberseite mit einem angepassten Angebot, welches insbesondere eine Entgeltsteigerung ab dem 1. Juni 2024 beinhaltete. Auch dazu konnte keine Einigung erzielt werden.

Die Fortführung der Verhandlung wurde auf den 7. Juni 2024 vertagt. Damit habe die IG Metall die Möglichkeit vertan, noch in der Friedenspflicht einen erfolgreichen Abschluss der Tarifverhandlungen zu erreichen und die Entgelte zum frühestmöglichen Zeitpunkt, bereits im Juni 2024, zu steigern, so der Textilverband.

Die wirtschaftliche Lage der Nord-Ostdeutschen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie ist weiter äußerst angespannt. Insbesondere die Produktionsunternehmen leiden unter einem nie dagewesenen Kostendruck bei Energie, Rohstoffen und Personal. Sie stehen vor der Situation, in Deutschland nicht mehr wettbewerbsfähig produzieren zu können.

Das Forschungsinstitut für Textil und Bekleidung (FTB) der Hochschule Niederrhein steht seit 2009 für Forschung: von der Kompetenzplattform mit wenigen Mitarbeitenden zum eigenständigen Institut mit rund 40 Beschäftigten.
 
Die Hochschule feierte das 15-jährige Jubiläum unter dem Motto „Forschung, die anzieht!“ mit rund 150 Gäste und Partner, die den Werdegang des FTB von der Gründungszeit bis heute begleitet haben.
 
Das FTB war eines der ersten gegründeten Institute an der HSNR. Hier setzen Lehrende, Studierende und Forschende ihr Wissen in die Praxis um: Mit Hilfe der modernen Ausstattung und Maschinen bietet es optimale Bedingungen für Versuchsreihen, um an Lösungen für bestimmte Fragestellungen zu arbeiten. Themen entlang der gesamten textilen Verarbeitungskette einschließlich Recycling am Produktebensende, in die alle Lehrenden des Fachbereichs eng miteinbezogen werden, können hier umgesetzt werden. Groß geschrieben wird auch die Zusammenarbeit mit anderen Instituten und Hochschulen. Davon profitieren in besonderem Maße die Studierenden der unterschiedlichen Studiengänge wie Textil- Bekleidungstechnik, Design-Ingenieur oder Textile and Clothing Management.
 
Studierende früh an komplexe Probleme und Forschungsaufgaben heranzuführen, war immer ein Ziel der HSNR. Einen wichtigen Meilenstein erreichte der Fachbereich Anfang der 2000er Jahre mit neuen Prüfungsordnungen für Bachelor- und Masterstudiengänge in deutscher und englischer Sprache.
 
Um sich von den bisherigen Diplomstudiengängen stärker abzugrenzen, sollte die Forschung mehr Gewicht bekommen. 2009 wurde schließlich aus einer Kompetenzplattform ein eigenständiges Forschungsinstitut.
 
Die Aufnahme des FTB in das Forschungskuratorium Textil war ein Türöffner, der die Bewerbung um Forschungsprojekte bei der Industriellen Gemeinschaftsforschung (IGF) ermöglichte. Mit den ersten IGF-Projekten kamen auch der Erfolg bei anderen Förderrichtlinien und der Ausbau der Industriekooperationen.
 
Seitdem hat sich das Institut zu einer festen Größe in der Textilforschung im In- und Ausland entwickelt und beschäftigt heute rund 40 Forschende sowie in jedem Semester rund 30 Studierende.
 

Vision and technology are the key ingredients of a ground-breaking school blazer that is showing how businesses can move to a circular textiles economy.  
 
While many brands are grappling with the complexities of inevitable legislation and engrained business models, leading school uniform producer, David Luke, has launched a fully recyclable ‘circular’ school blazer that is designed to be recycled through Project Re:claim, the world’s first commercial-scale polyester recycling plant.
 
Project Re:claim is a joint venture between the UK’s largest charity textile collector, The Salvation Army, and leading circularity specialists Project Plan B. The plant opened in the UK in January 2024, and presents huge opportunities for brands to transition to textile-to-textile manufacturing models.
 
David Luke’s circular blazer has been introduced to the brand’s successful Eco-uniform range which has sold over 1.7 million Eco-blazers in the last decade. Up until 2023, David Luke’s Eco-blazer, like many recycled garments, has been made from recycled plastic bottles. But the company has been working with Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B and the Circular Textiles Foundation, to bring the 100% recyclable blazer to market.
 
Tim Cross said: “David Luke has grasped the opportunity to embed 100% recyclable and 100% recycled garments into their range, starting with the school blazer. We now have the technology to enable their blazers to be recycled without any separation of the garment, making it an efficient recycling process. The team at David Luke has worked tirelessly with their manufacturers to create a blazer that does not compromise on design or quality, and yet is much kinder to the environment.”
 
Every detail from the lining, buttons and zips to the inter-linings and adhesives, has been re-thought and re-designed to meet the demands of an everyday school blazer and to recycle the garment once it reaches its end-of-life. Up until now, when the blazers have eventually been handed down to siblings, or given to the local charity shop, there had been no end-of-life solution for polyester garments apart from incineration. Now, Project Re:claim can recycle the blazer to produce polyester pellets, which are then spun into yarn to be used for future David Luke circular blazers.
 
Cross continues: “David Luke has the vision to create a fully circular range, and we have the potential to supply recycled content. The possibilities are infinite in terms of the future of garment design and manufacturing.”
 
Kathryn Shuttleworth, Chief Executive of David Luke, said: “It is a natural next step for us to transition to a textile-to-textile model. We have been producing garments using recycled plastic bottles for 15 years, but we have always had an eye on developments in textile recycling and solutions for end-of-life garments.”
 
In 2020, David Luke was awarded the Queen’s award for Enterprise for Sustainable Development and in January 2023 the David Luke circular blazer achieved Circular Foundation Textile certification.
 
Shuttleworth added: “Our focus will always be on those essential ingredients for parents and children - style, durability and affordability. But we have a responsibility to change our business model to better protect children’s future and the environment. It has become our obsession to make uniforms that meet our customers’ demands. We are really excited about the future as we continue to develop our range.”
 
Majonne Frost, Head of Environment and Sustainability for Salvation Army Trading Company, said: “Our vision is to enable companies to produce uniforms, corporate wear, fashion garments and textile ranges using recycled polyester.  We have the infrastructure to collect donations at scale and we now need companies to step up. This is an opportunity for companies to make a commitment to significantly reduce their environmental impact, and David Luke are showing us how that is possible.”

Während sich die ersten Unternehmen bereits mit der Warenbewertung für den Jahresabschluss 2023 beschäftigen, arbeiten andere noch an der Schlussabrechnung der Überbrückungshilfe. Diese muss bekanntlich bis 30. September 2024 eingereicht werden. Wird die Frist versäumt, müssen die Hilfen zurückgezahlt werden!
 
Sowohl beim normalen Jahresabschluss als auch bei der Schlussabrechnung der Überbrückungshilfe stellt sich gleichermaßen die Frage nach einer angemessenen Warenbewertung und deren stichhaltiger Begründung. Über die allgemeinen Bewertungsfragen hinaus besteht zudem das Problem, wie die Corona-Überbrückungshilfe zu berücksichtigen ist, bei der Warenwertverluste den erstattbaren Fixkosten zugerechnet werden konnten.
 
Grundsätzlich beruhen Konflikte zwischen Einzelhändlern und Finanzämtern darauf, dass eine niedrige Bewertung des aktuellen Warenbestandes zu einer vorübergehenden Schmälerung des Gewinns und somit auch der Steuerlast führt. Zusätzlich kommt ggf. noch die Frage hinzu, inwieweit auch die Höhe der Überbrückungshilfe für Warenverluste angemessen war. Bekanntermaßen gibt es – im Gegensatz zum Anlagevermögen – keine klar fixierten Richtwerte für die Abschriftenhöhe bei Kleidung, Schuhen und Accessoires/Lederwaren, so dass Finanzbehörden bei hohen Abschriften seitens des Modehandels häufig misstrauisch sind.
 
Andererseits schreibt das HGB allen Kaufleuten eine generell vorsichtige Bewertung ihrer Situation vor. Hinzu kommt auf beiden Seiten oftmals strukturelles Unwissen, z. B. über die modische Aktualität von Artikeln bei den Finanzbehörden oder die tatsächlichen Auswirkungen von Bewertungs-Entscheidungen auf Handelsseite. So führt ein generell überhöhter Ansatz bei den Teilwertabschreibungen z. B. nur einmalig zu Steuervorteilen.
 
Um Unternehmen des Bekleidungs-, Schuh- und Lederwarenhandels, aber auch Steuerberatern und Finanzbehörden verständliche Anhaltspunkte für eine objektive und nachvollziehbare Warenbewertung zu geben, hat der BTE im Herbst 2021 die Publikation „Warenbewertung und Teilwert-Abschreibung im Outfit-Handel – gesetzliche Grundlagen, Inventur- und Bewertungsverfahren, Auswirkungen, Praxisbeispiele“ erstellt. Auf 84 Seiten werden, ausgehend von den handels- und steuerrechtlichen Grundlagen sowie geltenden Bewertungsprinzipien, die folgenden Punkte praxisnah und anhand vieler Beispiele ausführlich dargestellt:
 

• mögliche Inventur- und Bewertungsverfahren
• Besonderheiten und Kriterien der Warenbewertung im Outfithandel
• Teilwertabschläge in der Praxis nach Teilbranchen (DOB, HAKA, KIKO, Wäsche/Strümpfe, Heim- und Haustextilien, Sport, Schuhe)
• Auswirkungen von Teilwertabschriften und Inventurdifferenzen auf GuV und Bilanz
• Maßnahmen zur Durchsetzung von Teilwertabschlägen gegenüber dem Finanzamt

Ein Musterbrief an das Finanzamt mit konkreten Empfehlungen zur realistischen Höhe von Teilwertabschlägen für einzelne Artikel der Outfitbranche – mit und ohne Berücksichtigung eines Corona-Effektes – rundet die Publikation ab. Autoren dieses Leitfadens sind die Unternehmensberater Peter Anklam und Ulf Heitmann.
 
Hinweis: Der Titel aus der Fachreihe BTE-Praxiswissen Textil, Schuhe, Lederwaren kann bestellt werden im BTE-Webshop unter www.bte.de (Rubrik: Publikationen), wo auch das Inhaltsverzeichnis und Leseproben einsehbar sind. Oder per E-Mail an itebestellungen@bte.de. Preis: 45,79 Euro zzgl. Versand für die Print-Version bzw. 42,06 Euro für die PDF-Variante; jeweils zzgl. 7% MwSt. EHV-Mitglieder erhalten unter Angabe ihrer EHV-Mitgliedsnummer einen Nachlass in Höhe von 20 Prozent!

• Sales Volume rose 3% QoQ and 2% YoY to 3.55MT
• Adjusted EBITDA of $366M, a rise of 32% QoQ and a decline of 2% YoY
• Operating cash flows of $184M
• Net Operating Debt to Equity of 1.12
• Reported EPS of THB0.17

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) reported an improved quarterly performance as the prolonged destocking trend showed further signs of easing. During the quarter, the company progressed its IVL 2.0 evolved strategy to enhance earnings quality and transform its business to emerge stronger from the downturn in global chemical markets.

Indorama Ventures’ reported Adjusted EBITDA1  of $366 million in 1Q24, a 32% increase QoQ and a 2% decline YoY. Sales volume grew 3% QoQ as the widespread customer destocking that sapped demand through 2023 shows signs of a gradual recovery across all sectors, partially offset by a winter freeze in the U.S. The result was supported by lower utilities costs in Europe, Red Sea-related supply chain disruptions that benefited the company’s import parity advantages, and favorable shale gas economics that bolstered profitability in the U.S.

Indorama Ventures expects the recovery in volumes to continue through 2024, albeit at a gradual pace as destocking normalizes and the approaching summer supports demand. However, the overall landscape for the global chemical industry remains challenging due to excess capacity builds, as well due to persistent inflation and high interest rates which weigh on industry spreads and continue to impair profitability, especially across the polyester value chain. Our HVA segment ‘Indovinya’ is progressing well into the second quarter post the easing of destocking and anticipating a healthy 2024.

The company’s experienced management remains intensely focused on managing costs, optimizing competitiveness, and maintaining high liquidity. Indorama Ventures’ diverse geographical footprint is a key advantage in the current low-margin environment, allowing its businesses to maintain their strong market premium, supported by protection from trade and non-trade barriers.

In 1Q, the company made headway with its IVL 2.0 three-year plan to leverage its global leadership position and forge a new era of opportunity amid significant structural changes in chemical markets. Under the evolved strategy, which the company outlined at its annual Capital Markets Day in March, Indorama Ventures is optimizing assets, reducing debt, and focusing on generating free cash flow to deliver enhanced shareholder returns. Today, 70% of the company's revenue has deployed the SAPS/4HANA ERP and is using the infrastructure to enhance digital procurement, sales excellence, and integration of supply chains across the business. The company believes these AI tools will improve productivity and costs, as well as release working capital in line with its modernization strategy.

As part of IVL 2.0, the company is optimizing 7 sites, including the ongoing evaluation of its PTA/PET operation in the Netherlands. It has also made significant progress in its program to refinance $1.1 billion of debt within the first half of 2024 to ensure ample liquidity. Recent capital raisings include a $255 million ‘Ninja loan’, a THB 10 billion debenture, a $100M bi-lateral loan, and this week’s successful close of a $500 million syndicated loan – achieved at lower-than-average spreads compared to previous issuances.

To unlock value, Indorama Ventures is preparing its packaging and surfactants businesses for IPOs. From 1Q24, the Indovinya segment (previously named ‘Integrated Oxides and Derivatives’) is focused on developing its attractive downstream surfactants operations as a separate segment. The segment’s Intermediate Chemicals business, consisting of shale base integrated Ethylene MEG, MTBE and merchant Purified EO assets, have been moved under the Combined PET (CPET) segment where they are a natural fit.

Segment Performances
In 1Q24, CPET segment (including Intermediate Chemicals) posted Adjusted EBITDA of $249 million, a 34% gain QoQ and 4% YoY as supply chain disruptions and a consequent spike in global ocean freight rates supported high prices and margins, and as Western markets benefited from lower energy costs. The Indovinya segment reported a stable Adjusted EBITDA of $70 million, impacted by the winter freeze in the U.S and a mini turnaround at a PO/PG plant. The Fibers segment achieved a remarkable 73% increase in Adjusted EBITDA to $39 million QoQ, and 2% YoY, as destocking waned across all three business verticals and drove an 8% QoQ increase in volume.

Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2024 will take place on 22-23 May in the Copenhagen Concert Hall. Presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), a non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, the 2024 edition with mark the Summit’s 15th anniversary and will bring together  leaders to drive urgent social and environmental progress.
 
Her Majesty The Queen of Denmark will attend the Summit on 22 May and provide Opening Remarks. The Queen first attended the inaugural Summit in 2009 and has since spoken at every edition of the Summit, demonstrating her dedication to a more sustainable future.
 
Under the central theme ‘Unlocking the Next Level’, over 100 other esteemed speakers will take to the Summit’s historic stages to share action-based insights, including executives from: Kering, Patagonia, Maersk, Brioni, Conservation International, The New York Times, Ralph Lauren Corporation, H&M Group, Ganni, WWF, Re&Up, Fair Labor Association, and more.
 
With a 15-year foundation as a leading forum for sustainability in fashion, the event will attract over 1000 stakeholders from the fashion sector, adjacent industries, policymakers, solution providers, and more. The Summit’s programme will be structured around unlocking solutions to fashion’s biggest sustainability barriers, no matter where an organisation is on its sustainability journey. Sessions include: ‘Fragmented Futures: Fashion’s Policy Agenda’, ‘Luxury, Leather, and Land’, ‘Towards a Binding Agreement on Wages, ‘Pathways to Indigenous Partnership’, and ‘Ending Oversupply’.
 
Building on the impact of previous Summits, the 2024 edition will also host more action-oriented roundtable meetings. The closed-door sessions bring together groups of stakeholders to discuss relevant barriers, share learnings, and build collaborations to support the implementation of solutions. Roundtables will address topics such as: ‘Scaling Circular Textile Systems’, ‘Pay Equity Interventions in European Value Chains’, and ‘Impactful Influence’.
 
The Summit will also present the Innovation Forum, a curated exhibition of leading sustainable solutions. Summit attendees can meet with exhibitors covering the entire value chain – from innovative materials to end-of-use solutions.