From the Sector

SHIMA SEIKI MFG. will participate in the ITM 2022 International Textile Machinery Exhibition in Istanbul, Turkey.

SHIMA SEIKI will exhibit a wide range of its products, including proposals in seam-free WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology that offers an alternative to labor-intensive manufacturing in Turkey and other international markets. Featured is the flagship MACH2XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine with original SlideNeedle™ on four needle beds and spring-loaded moveable sinkers with expanded patterning capability, the MACH2VS V-bed machine for producing WHOLEGARMENT® items using every other needle, as well as the compact SWG091N2 for producing smaller WHOLEGARMENT® items and accessories. A brand new proposal in V-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting will also be introduced in the form of the N.SVR183 machine. N.SVR123SP features a special loop presser bed that can produce hybrid inlay fabrics with both knit and weave characteristics. N.SVR123SP at ITM will feature the special i-Plating option, capable of alternating yarn colors in any pattern, producing jacquard-like designs using plain jersey stitch for even greater diversity in knit design. Meanwhile N.SSR112 offers industry-leading technology in an economical yet reliable package made in Japan. Also on display is the SFG20 glove knitting machine.

Demonstrations will be performed on SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system. At the core of the company’s “Total Fashion System” concept, SDS®-ONE APEX4 provides comprehensive support throughout the production supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way SDS®-ONE APEX4 improves on the design evaluation process with its ultra-realistic simulation capability, whereby virtual samples replace physical sampling, consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. The same capability is present in APEXFiz™ subscription-based design software. Installed on personal computers, APEXFiz™ features the same functionality as SDS®-ONE APEX4, but with the added versatility to adapt to different work styles and business environments including teleworking and telecommuting. Digital prototyping using virtual samples on SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz™ help to digitally transform the fashion supply chain for realizing sustainable manufacturing. APEXFiz™ will be shown along with SHIMA SEIKI’s yarnbank™ digital yarn web platform that further enhances the realism of virtual samples.

• Sustainable Apparel Forum (SAF) organized in Dhaka to Accelerate Apparel Sustainability in Post-Covid

Policy makers, industry leaders, brands’ representatives and fashion campaigners from home and abroad gathered in Dhaka yesterday to accelerate momentum of sustainability in Bangladesh apparel industry.

More than 50 speakers as well as 20 green growth exhibitors from over 20 countries participated in the 3rd edition of Sustainable Apparel Forum (SAF) organized by Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) partnering with Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association (BGMEA).

Five plenary sessions on ‘Demystifying Climate Action’, ‘Purchasing Practice’, ‘ESG (Environmental, Social & Governance) & Green Finance’, ‘Closing the Loop: Circular Economy in the Fashion Industry’, and ‘Due Diligence and Legislation’ held at the SAF along with an opening plenary and a closing plenary.  

The Italian company presented its newest innovations and synergies, among the introduction of SMART O3, a new Ozone Booster improving the bleaching on indigo, and the educational experience Circular Explorations: Recipe for Change, in collaboration with Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab at Denim Première Vision.

The Trustainable™ collection FW 23 presents the SMART 03
For Officina39, “Trustainable” is a term that expresses the company’s approach based on honesty, transparency and social responsibility: this attitude once again characterizes the technologies that have given shape to the Trustainable™ collection FW 23.

The latest technological addition to the line is represented by the new Ozone Booster SMART 03,
which assures more final bluish indigo shades, activating the reaction of Ozone on indigo without any strong oxidizing agent. Better results, less aggressive bleaching.

Less water, plus sustainability, empowered result
The new collection also marks the debut of Aqualess Fade, a technology that recreates the bleaching effect of chlorine on fabrics, a waterless special compound for the discoloration of denim on indigo/black garments which reduces resource consumption and environmental impact. This newest innovation completes and integrates Aqualess Mission, a combination of technologies that allows garment laundry processes to reduce 75% of the water use.

Officina39 and Adriana Galijasevic join forces
Circular Explorations: Recipe for Change is the collaborative and educational project developed by Officina39 and Adriana Galijasevic’s Cocircular Lab, showcasing the use of waste as a resource and prolonging the life of the garment through color. Several brands (C.P. Company, Tommy for Life/PVH Corp., Organic Basics, Asics, Lenzing and Camo) donated overstock garments as well as second-grade production or damaged, unsold pieces to be updated with newly developed applications made with Officina39’s Recycrom™, patented dyestuffs range made from textile waste.

Computerized knitting machine manufacturer SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. will participate in the SIMATEX exhibition in Buenos Aires, Argentina from 30th of May - 2nd of June 2022.

SHIMA SEIKI will exhibit a wide range of its products, including proposals in seam-free WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology that offers an alternative to labor-intensive manufacturing in the South American market. Three MACH2VS machines, capable of knitting WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear using every other needle, will be shown in 12, 16 and 18 gauge configurations. The N.SVR workhorse series improves on the SVR series, resetting the industry benchmark for shaped knitting. The N.SVR123SP featuring a special loop presser bed that can produce hybrid inlay fabrics with both knit and weave characteristics. Shown in 18 gauge at the SHIMA SEIKI booth, N.SVR123SP will also feature the special i-Plating option, capable of alternating yarn colors in any pattern, producing jacquard-like designs using plain jersey stitch for even greater diversity in knit design. N.SSR112 improves on the SSR series and continues to offer industry-leading technology in an economical yet reliable package made in Japan.

Demonstrations will be performed on SHIMA SEIKI's SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system. At the core of the company’s “Total Fashion System” concept, SDS®-ONE APEX4 provides comprehensive support throughout the production supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way SDS®-ONE APEX4 improves on the design evaluation process with its ultra-realistic simulation capability, whereby virtual samples minimize the need for actual sample-making. This realizes significant savings in time, cost and material, contributing to sustainable manufacturing.

Huntsman Textile Effects has introduced NOVACRON® Atlantic EC-NC, one of the the industry’s first blue elements that delivers chlorine- and nitrogen oxide (NOx)-fastness alongside lightfastness for textiles, ensuring garments to look as good as new for longer.

The NOVACRON® Atlantic EC-NC blue element completes Huntsman Textile Effects’ Non-Contrasting Concept and addresses the challenges faced by mills to deliver:

• Improved light-, perspiration- and chlorine-fastness
  Ideal for the production of light-medium shades of towels and bedding and T-shirts, shirts and trousers, the dye meets the most stringent home laundering program requirements of US and Japanese brands, and also performs well in other markets where chlorine is added to water supplies.
• High NOx resistance
  NOx present in the air makes textile products more susceptible to fading during transportation, storage and retail display. The high NOx resistance of NOVACRON® Atlantic EC-NC enables mills and brands to achieve positive differentiation with textiles that are less likely to fade.
• Operational excellence
  With unique application properties for both exhaust and pad processes, and outstanding compatibility with all other trichromatic dyes, NOVACRON® Atlantic EC-NC is a breakthrough in right first-time production.

The innovative IP-protected NOVACRON® Atlantic EC-NC dye is also a great addition to the successful NOVACRON® NC concept for earth tone colors. The earth tones – from sand to brown, olive, beige, khaki and grey – are popular in casual wear and sports apparel, as well as for home and hospitality textile products such as furnishing, towels and bedding.

CALZEDONIA chooses products belonging to the GREEN LABEL line by ILUNA GROUP for its new Eco Collection of tights. They are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) and OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certified and made with recycled yarns.

The ingredients used in the collection are:

• Q-NOVA® by Fulgar, an eco-sustainable nylon 6.6 fiber obtained from regenerated raw materials through a mechanical process that does not involve the use of chemical materials. It has been certified with the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and for some time now has been part of the HIGG INDEX, the index developed by SAC (Sustainable Apparel Coalition) evaluating the environmental impact of the entire life cycle of a garment;
• ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei, one of the first recycled stretch yarns certified with Global Recycled Standard (GRS).

This collaboration confirms Iluna's commitment to creating products with a environmental responsibility thanks to a technological and corporate system that covers the entire perimeter of production, from materials to processing, dyeing and finishing. An industrial reality that increasingly integrates the value of responsibility, as demonstrated by the fact that the percentage of sustainable production has risen from 3% in 2018 to 52% in 2021.

Under the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) initiative to enhance transparency and traceability in the garment and footwear industry, Haelixa realizes a pilot project with Costach Cooperative and Peruvian textile company Creditex to give sustainable rural cotton producers in Peru more visibility in the value chain.

In 2019, UNECE and United Nations Centre for Trade Facilitation and Electronic Business (UN/CEFACT) have set up an initiative to drive transparency and traceability for sustainable value chains in the garment and footwear industry. The initiative is jointly implemented with the International Trade Centre (ITC) with financial support by the European Union. Haelixa is proud to be part of the group of experts that develops policy recommendations, traceability standards, and conducts projects to set traceability benchmarks. With the support of the +Cotton Project, implemented by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) and the Brazilian Cooperation Agency (ABC) a pilot is being realized in this context to mark and trace the finest Pima cotton for Creditex directly at the gin in Piura, Peru. Haelixa’s DNA marker connects the actual lint cotton to the entry on a blockchain system provided by UNECE. The Haelixa technology ensures that the information about the product’s origin and the journey of the product along the value chain is always safely embedded into the product itself. The marked cotton will be used to make exclusive pajamas sets for Cat´s Pajamas. DNA traceability will enable the verification of the premium origin of Peruvian Pima cotton in the final garment produced using sustainable practices by family farmers associated with the Costach cooperative.

Costach is the main cooperative of cotton farmers in Peru. The cooperative consists of 5,200 family farmers in the Piura region, producing mostly extra-long fiber of Pima Cotton. Since 2017, the +Cotton project has been supporting the farmers with training on sustainable practices and has been providing technical assistance for improved markets access.

Creditex is vertically integrated from cotton ginning to fine thread, up to the production of high quality apparel for international premium brands. The company takes social responsibility and environmental stewardship very seriously and therefore makes a strong partner for this project, empowering the cotton family farmers that hold the majority of cotton production in Peru.

Chemistry plus creativity” is Officina39’s new tagline expressing the most important values at the core of the company’s approach, founded on a deep understanding of sustainability. Embracing the “plus” that used to feature as part of the Officina39 logo, it now takes the shape of a true formula of innovation that echoes throughout the renovated brand look that the company is introducing for the first time at Kingpins.

The latest addition to the Trustainable™ collection is Aqualess Fade, a technology that recreates the bleaching effect of chlorine on fabrics, a waterless special compound for the discoloration of denim on indigo/black garments which is reducing resource consumption and environmental impact. This innovation completes and integrates Aqualess Mission, a combination of technologies that allows garment laundry processes to reduce 75% of the water use.

Traditional systems usually use about 52 liters of water for a pair of jeans, while Officina39’s cutting-edge technology employs only 12.5 liters without affecting the quality of the final product. Until now, the process included three eco-friendly technologies: Novascraper Indigo, a laser finishing technique that adds a natural, vintage look to denim garments; OZ-ONE Powder, an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment, for a worn and distressed look; and Aqualess Aged, a waterless compound to give denim abrasion effects.

“In our field, the word “less” is to be found pretty much everywhere you look: less water, less energy, less impact and the list goes on. So I asked myself if we could work on implementing the word “plus” in this collection.” stated Stefano Parrotta, Officina39 Technical Manager. “And the answer, of course, was yes: we thought of all the ways in which the idea of more (plus) best represents what we do – more passion, more creativity, more collaboration, more inspiration, more Officina39. I think it is important to look for what the industry needs more of and the word “plus” perfectly embodies that!”

adidas and Juventus reveal the club’s 4th kit, designed in collaboration with Brazilian street artist, Eduardo Kobra. Together, the partners look to extend the borders of the sport and build connections with the realm of art to celebrate a more diverse and inclusive world.

Kobra, born and raised in São Paulo, is famed for his photorealistic street art murals which often challenge deep cultural and societal issues, and inspire and provoke thought with messages hidden within the art.

Kobra’s artistic expression and the values of Juventus draw many parallels, from being born in the streets to working as a platform for socialization that brings people together – both contributing to society, culture, and the new generations.

With adidas’s focus on creativity, telling real stories about real people, and the belief that sport has the power to change lives, the collaboration carries a powerful and unified message that helps bring to life the most authentic side of football.

The jersey design is instantly recognisable as one of Kobra’s own, featuring his signature geometric style with the use of bright colours and bold lines, allowing the club’s diverse fanbase to express itself in a different way. The adidas and Juventus logos are embroidered into the fabric with the jersey finished by Kobra’s distinct signature as a back neck sign off.

“What we express and the way we do it speaks about who we are. We cannot be our best version if we don’t embrace diversity. Our differences are what makes us unique, which is why adidas and Juventus have been such perfect partners to work with on this special project. I hope it resonates with people as much as I enjoyed creating the artwork for it,” said Eduardo Kobra.

The new jersey is made with recycled materials, putting sustainability at the heart of the garment. It features the latest in adidas’ temperature regulation technology, AEROREADY – FEEL READY.

ISKO has signed the Dutch Denim Deal for circular denim. The Denim Deal, a public-private initiative, was launched by the Dutch government following the EU Green Deal and the Circular Action Plan and includes agreements to make the denim textile chain more circular. In the deal, more than 40 parties, such as Scotch & Soda, PVH and Soorty, are working together to improve post-consumer textiles in the denim industry and make fiber recycling the new norm. The signatories cover a wide range of manufacturing companies, brands and stores, collectors, sorters, cutters, and weavers.

The main objective is to collectively produce a total of 3 million jeans with (a minimum of 20%) post-consumer recycled cotton (PCR) by the end of 2023. In addition, all parties have agreed that they will work together towards the standard of at least 5% recycled textiles in all denim garments as quickly as possible. The Denim Deal is also an opportunity to set up a 'reverse supply chain' for recycled cotton and create a systemic change to close the denim cycle.

Although the denim industry still has a negative image due to its high carbon footprint, in recent years many good steps have been taken in the field of recycling. But these steps are on a small scale, limiting the overall impact.
"The Dutch Denim Deal fits perfectly into ISKO's circular strategy," says Marc Lensen, ISKO Head of Global Communication. "Our scale and knowledge of sustainable technological solutions will increase the overall impact and accelerate circularity in the denim chain.”