From the Sector

The grand finale of the anniversary year: 90 years of athluxury sports fashion. 2022 was marked by spectacular celebrations around 90 years of BOGNER. This special year came to an end last weekend with an exclusive event in the top ski resort of Kitzbühel/Austria.

Together with the Kitzbühel tourism region, invited guests, consisting of influencers, loyal customers, and local heroes were able to experience Kitzbühel and the surrounding area up close on Thursday, December 8th and Friday, December 9th. Activities such as Skidoo and horse carriage rides, the Advent market, haute cuisine and a visit to probably the oldest ski hut in the world Sonnbühel brought the guests closer to the exclusive tourist region – all under the motto „Frozen Riviera“, BOGNER‘s unique anniversary capsule collection.

After the exciting day‘s activities, an exclusive event in the newly renovated BOGNER store in Kitzbühel marked the end on Friday afternoon. Matching the first snowfall of the season, the latest BOGNER styles were discovered in a cozy atmosphere with special drink creations.

First insights, first new materials and trend highlights: On 29 and 30 November 2022, the European premium fabric sector will meet for an important exchange with international producers at VIEW in Munich to find out about the first colour and material trends for spring/summer 2024 at the earliest possible time. A selected range of around 300 pre-collections will be on show at the MVG Museum. This means that VIEW will once again be strong and business-relevant this season.

The past VIEW Premium Selection in June 2022 was a great success. Completely booked out and more international than ever, the Preview Textile Show of Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH was an important contact point for the buying and design teams of companies such as Akris, Baldessarini, Bogner, Calvin Klein, Cinque, Comma, Drykorn, Escada, Hugo Boss, Lala Berlin, Lagerfeld, Laurél, MAC, Marc Cain, Marc O'Polo, Riani, Schumacher or Strellson. The trend towards an increasingly international range continues in November. Numerous buyers, designers and product managers from European ready-to-wear manufacturers are expected in Munich the week after next, looking for new material innovations and trends at VIEW and the parallel ISPO.

International exhibitor portfolio with many new names
Material influences from Europe to Asia bring a highly exciting mix for the trend research of the new collections. Exhibitors from Bulgaria, China, Denmark, Germany, France, Great Britain, Greece, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Korea, Spain and Turkey are among the participants.

The newcomers and returnees include, in addition to others:
AGNSTR / ALA CAMPOLMI / BAIRD MC NUTT / BELL & THUNDER / CB STILE / COLORA / EKOTEN / FABRIC LAB / GUARISCO / JECA LIMITED / KING BUTTON / LANIFICIO CAVERNI / LIMONATA EAST / M.T.T. MANIFATTURA / MANTERO / MILIOR / MTP PIEROZZI / PADROCASAS / PIZVAL / RIBBONTEX / SITIP / TEKSTINA SINCE 1828 / TEXMODA / VIVOLO und WAY.

The philosophy guiding Officina39's innovation and development ranges fluidly between exploration of color, denim heritage and artistic expression, but has sustainability and the search for environmentally friendly chemical solutions for the fashion industry as its cornerstones. This is the core vision that accompanied the Italian company, when presenting its latest technologies and collaborations at Denimsandjeans in Tokyo from November 1-2.

Denim & Art
Juan Manuel Gomez, Officina39 Creative Leader, represents the company’s multidisciplinary approach and combines artistic expression with a thorough technical experience. His explorations were drawn on the Denim Art Wall at the fair. Furthermore, in the interactive seminar “Art & Denim As A Process Of Repetition” he explained that there is a constant act of repetition as automatic drawing or pictorial act in the processes of the textile industry.

The SS24 collection
The Multicolor Denim Dreaming collection is a combination of several Officina39’s sustainable key technologies:

• Nebudye D: a wide range of fresh colors to obtain a unique dyeing effect in nebulization/fog system machinery and can be discharged in a creative way with Oz-One Powder, an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment, and Remover IND/J-N, Officina39’s solution to replace the use of Potassium Permanganate (PP) on denim and obtain a worn and distressed vintage look.
• Novantic series: a combination of selected dyestuffs with a special mordanting agent suitable to obtain surface dyeing to provide vintage or old look effects.
• Recycrom™: a patented dyestuffs range obtained through a cutting-edge upcycling process that involves textile fibers from used clothing and manufacturing waste for dyeing and printing applications. Its sustainable and revolutionary powders assure a whole universe of denim effects: from classic authentic vintage to acid wash look (Eco Marble), from printed effect (Indigo Replica) to worn and distressed vintage look (Recycrom™ Dirty).
• Just One Step Process: an innovation that saves time, energy, space and of course water, by combining several phases of the Aqualess Mission at the same time: a raw garment enters the machine and a garment with a basic vintage effect comes out ready to be dried, already treated, bleached and softened.
• Remover Activator: a technology that in combination with PP replacement products creates in one step general bleaching, localized corrosion and highlights effects on jeans.

Iluna Group is back at MarediModa (November 8-10), the international fair dedicated to fabrics and accessories for the beachwear, underwear and athleisure sectors, to present its latest innovations, with a focus on a new beachwear sets able to combine aesthetic research and environmental responsibility.

In terms of aesthetic innovation, exploration continues with matchy pareos and allovers, double laces with colorful charmeuses and multicolour laces enriched with iridescent effects (Lurex). A novelty of this season is the new double face printing on polyamide with a high sea fastness and iridescent effects on GRS-certified tulle.

The GRS certified Green Label collection uses Renycle® and Q-NOVA®, both GRS-certified pre-consumer recycled polyamide yarns in addition to the recycled stretch ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei.

The BIOLINE embraces the circular economy and presents proposals containing Amni Soul Eco® and ROICA™ V550. Moreover, the continuous path through the new dimension of responsibility continues in several directions: experiments with 16 different natural dyestuffs; and continued investment in technologies that can ensure significant savings in water and energy consumption, including GREENDROP, the new GOTS-certified digital pigment printing system.

Inspired by this innate desire to experience nature and a shared vision, adidas TERREX has teamed up with fashion-forward Japanese outdoor label and wander on a collection that will take hikers from city centre to mountain top (and back again) in style.

Since its inception, adidas TERREX has focused on providing people with the clothing and apparel they need to realize their individual goals in the outdoors and enjoy the benefits of nature.

Tokyo designers Keita Ikeuchi and Mihoko Mori, meanwhile, launched their own outdoor label and wander in 2011 to bring more creativity to outdoors wear. By pairing high-fashion design with the practical requirements needed for adventure, theirs is a modern approach to apparel that works both in the wild, and on the streets.  

Together, adidas TERREX and and wander have collaborated on a multi-seasonal collection that ties these philosophies together to help people enjoy more outdoors experiences.

With a striking visual update, the lightweight TERREX Free Hiker 2 offers grip on a range of surfaces, and a responsive BOOST midsole that delivers incredible energy return. With a breathable upper and a sock-like fit that adapts to every step, this supportive shoe made in part with Parley Ocean Plastic is ready for adventure, anywhere.

With the TERREX Free Hiker 2 taking care of the feet, the TERREX XPLORIC and wander COLD.RDY Down Jacket is a functional essential with eye-catching design. COLD.RDY insulating material help keep the warmth in, while prominent TERREX x and wander reflective prints on the jacket and detachable hood help it stand out. With an array of pockets and adjustable features for the right fit, this versatile jacket’s natural habitat is everywhere. It’s also made in part with recycled materials.

adidas TERREX x and wander graphics and reflective detailing have been worked into the rest of an adventure-ready outdoor clothing collection that also includes a TERREX Fleece Jacket, loose-fit unisex TERREX Graphics Hoody and TERREX Pants.

Also available in the adidas TERREX x and wander collection are breathable Merino Wool Hiking Socks made with COLD.RDY technology for snug hiking , a quilted Winterized Bucket Hat, and a lightweight AERO.RDY Hiking Backpack that is loaded with features to look after outdoor essentials.

After two years of joint collaboration and research the Swiss Textile Recycling Project “Texcircle” comes to an end. Partners and stakeholders have worked on the vision of a textile cluster where materials flow in circular loops. The goal of the project was to develop high-quality yarns and products incorporating such a large amount of recycled textiles as possible. In the end, several product prototypes from carpets, socks, and curtains to pullovers, padding and accessories have been developed with at least 50 % recycled fiber up to 80 % recycled fibers and yarns.

Europe has a waste problem of 7.5 million waste of which only 30-35 % is collected and less than 1 % of the textile and clothing worldwide is recycled into textiles and clothing again. It is as well found that around 80 % of the impact of a textile product lies in the design.

Together with the design research expertise of the Lucerne University of Applied sciences and arts, the spinning expertise of Rieter and the sorting and collection expertise of Texaid, systems should be created where products of high quality can be produced of recycled fiber. On board were the expertise of further Cluster partners of Brands, Retailers, and the public sector to see how a joint Cluster and system coukld be established.

The Project Texcircle and cluster is led by the Lucerne University of Applied Sciences and Arts – Art  & Design, and in collaboration with Coop, Rieter, Jacob Rohner AG, Ruckstuhl AG, TEXAID as well as workfashion.com ag. Furthermore, Bundesamt für Zivildienst ZIVI, NIKIN AG, and Tiger Liz Textiles are supporting the project. The project is funded by Innosuisse.

Furthermore, collaboration partners from all over Europe contributed to the project to enable these prototypes and systems.

Through joint developments from the design, the collecting, sorting trials, tearing, and spinning trials until the actual production trials and product testing. The partners were able to recycle 2.5 Tons of pre-and post-consumer textile waste into product prototypes with a promising commercial interest. From socks, west, and pullovers to non-woven felts and accessories to carpets and curtains. Through our 2 years of collaboration, the teamcame across several hurdles in the textile recycling value chain which could be tackled. This was a proof of concept that a circular system is possible and the industry now has to enable this at full scale.

Just ahead of the fall season, adidas Originals and Pharrell Williams return to launch an array of new colors of their gender-neutral Humanrace Premium Basics Collection. The FW22 drop features a premium, heavyweight jersey crafted from cotton from Better Cotton, which supports more sustainable cotton farming. Designs are punctuated with the signature puff-print logo execution and large ‘Humanrace’ chest branding on select pieces.

The collection comprises the PW Basics Tee, PW Basics Short, PW Basics Hoodie, PW Basics Pant, PW Basics Crew , and PW Basics Long Sleeve Tee. Each item is available in sizes ranging from 3XS-2XL and in seven colors chosen by Pharrell, including Night Grey, Alumina, Light  Grey Heather, Linen Green, Halo Blue, Almost Pink, and Almost Yellow.

Exhibition: Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty
May 5 – July 16, 2023

The Costume Institute’s spring 2023 exhibition will examine the work of Karl Lagerfeld (1933–2019). Focusing on the designer’s stylistic vocabulary as expressed in aesthetic themes that appear time and again in his fashions from the 1950s to his final collection in 2019, the show will spotlight the German-born designer’s unique working methodology.

Most of the approximately 150 pieces on display will be accompanied by Lagerfeld’s sketches, which underscore his complex creative process and the collaborative relationships with his premières, or head seamstresses. Lagerfeld’s fluid lines united his designs for Balmain, Patou, Chloé, Fendi, Chanel, and his eponymous label, Karl Lagerfeld, creating a diverse and prolific body of work unparalleled in the history of fashion.

A Selection of Footwear and Apparel Designed to Raise Awareness and Funding for Breast Cancer Now and National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc.

• In partnership with the charities Breast Cancer Now (UK/Europe) and National Breast Cancer Foundation (US), the Collection brings together a range of products for running, hiking and mountain biking
• £15/€15/$15 from each full-price sale will be donated to BCN (for purchases in the UK and EU) or NBCF (for purchases in the North America)
• The Collection feature illustrations by adidas pro mountain biker Veronique Sandler, empathetically designed to represent the comfort that those with breast cancer have experienced in the outdoors

Inspired by the experiences of people and communities around the world, including its own employees and athletes, adidas is launching the Breast Cancer Awareness Collection this October.
Available throughout Breast Cancer Awareness Month, the adidas Breast Cancer Awareness Collection sees adidas partnering with Breast Cancer Now in the UK and Europe, and National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc. in the US, to help raise awareness of breast cancer and support the vital work both charities do.

The products in the Breast Cancer Awareness Collection have been chosen to help everyone, regardless of physical ability or condition, spend more time in the outdoors.
The collection’s focus on functional footwear and apparel that is designed for the outdoors is in keeping with adidas' objective to help broaden access to outdoor sports and help everyone enjoy the benefits of spending time in nature. With United by Summits, adidas TERREX is taking this brand-wise ethos further by encouraging all people, from every background, to realise their own individual goals in the outdoors and enjoy the benefits of adventure, both big and small.

The collection is available for purchase in limited quantities from September 30, 2022 until the end of October 2022 for adiClub members only, and £15/€15/$15 from each full-price sale of the adidas Breast Cancer Awareness Collection will be donated to Breast Cancer Now (for purchases in the UK and EU) or National Breast Cancer Foundation, Inc. (for purchases in North America). The money raised will contribute to the important work these charities are doing.

adidas has unveiled the latest in its Made with Nature Capsule Collection with a new Ultraboost 22 Made with Nature and Made with Nature apparel joining the range as the brand continues its mission to call time on conventional materials and design out finite resources.

Designed in balance with the planet, the women’s Ultraboost 22 Made with Nature takes the forward-thinking elements of the Ultraboost 22 and amplifies them with natural materials. The shoe is made in part with natural materials – 40% of the knitted upper is made with lyocell, a material created with cellulosic fibers made from sustainably grown wood.

Launching alongside the Ultraboost 22 Made with Nature is a new Made with Nature apparel range, including a performance running wear look for men and women. The apparel range is made with at least 50% organic cotton.

Christopher Wheat, Global Category Director Running Footwear said: “At adidas, we understand that change is not only possible, it’s an urgent necessity. With Made with Nature, we are on a journey to a world beyond plastic. We’re calling time on conventional materials and methods of make. Once depleted, there’s no coming back for fossil resources. But when we design in synergy with natural processes, when we make with nature, we can use materials that regrow or regenerate – and change the way products are made."