From the Sector

• There is an urban legend that hemp canvas was used to make the very first pair of Levi’s jeans.
• While this is a myth that originated in the counterculture of the 1960s, hemp is without doubt the fibre of the moment for the denim industry.

At the second Kingpins24 virtual denim show that was broadcast from New York on June 23rd and 24th, the sustainable benefits of hemp fibre were referenced by many Monforts customers who are now including it in their collections, including AGI Denim, Artistic Milliners, Black Peony, Calik, Cone Denim, Naveena Denim Mills (NDM) and Orta.

“Hemp is an easy to grow fibre which requires no irrigation, no fertilizers, no herbicides and no chemicals,” says Allan Little, Director of Product Development for Cone Denim, which has recently launched its Sweet Leaf collection featuring the fibre. “Significantly, it also uses fifty per cent or even less water than cotton in cultivation.”

It can also bring some new aesthetics to denim too, he adds.

“Hemp has a unique colour and adds a different cast to our indigo, the drape and texture of the fabrics is different and it even adds  a bit of a unique hand, so combined with its sustainable credentials we are proud to be bringing the Sweet Leaf collection to the market.”

US supply chain

Cone is currently sourcing its hemp from France, but with much of its manufacturing now in Mexico – and with the introduction of the US Farm Bill in 2018 which has legalised the growing of legal hemp – is exploring the possibility of investing in the US supply chain.

“With US hemp we’re really at the R&D phase,” Little emphasises. “It’s a unique crop, so coming up with the right stalk to provide the right fibre is challenging. We’ve experimented with different types of seed and various methods of decortication.”

Decortication, he explains, is the mechanical removal of the outside layer of the hemp stalk to useable fibre on the inside. A second process, cottonization, is necessary to make the fibre suitable for spinning, because compared to cotton, hemp is longer, stiffer, and less flexible.

100% success

At the end of 2019, Naveena (NDM), headquartered in Karachi, introduced fabrics featuring up to 51% hemp content in blends with Tencel and recycled polyester and this year has developed the first 100% hemp denims.

“The response to the fabrics we showed last year was incredible and we were looking forward to the response to this latest development – which everyone was asking for – at the Kingpins show in Amsterdam, which unfortunately was unable to go ahead,” says NDM’s Director of Marketing Rashid Iqbal. “We produced initial samples in an undyed state because we were not sure how the wet spun yarn would react in the dyeing, but I’m happy to say we have had success in this respect and are now able to provide one hundred per cent indigo dyed hemp denim.”

Environmental benefits

“Differentiation is the key in the highly-competitive denim industry and we have assisted our customers with trials and optimised processing parameters for a range of different fibres, including hemp, both at our Advanced Technology Centre in Germany and at their own mills around the world,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “Given the environmental benefits of hemp, and the liberalisation of its cultivation in many parts of the world, the interest in it now comes as no surprise. We have the technologies and know-how to help our customers to fully maximise their hemp denims at all post-weaving stages of production.”

Monforts has a dominant position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Montex stenters. It has been enjoying further recent success with its Eco Line concept based on two key technology advances – the Eco Applicator and the Thermo Stretch.

The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing.

The CYD system also integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre.

TESCA and Willy SCHMITZ announce that they have closed a transaction whereby TESCA is acquiring the business of Willy SCHMITZ and its operations, located in Germany.

TESCA, headquartered in Paris France, is a major supplier of automotive fabrics, value added textile parts and seating components. TESCA employs 3,500 people and operate 22 facilities globally.

Willy SCHMITZ, headquartered in Monchengladbach, Germany is a major supplier of fabrics to the German automotive manufacturers, but also to other industries, including via its affiliated company OGUS. Willy SCHMITZ employs 150 people and operates in two facilities in Germany.

“The TESCA and Willy SCHMITZ businesses are very complementary in terms of customer interface and geography”, said Carl de Freitas, TESCA CEO. “Merging our activities will provide a broader more efficient platform to support our customers globally.”

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

Mimaki Europe announced that it will exhibit its broad portfolio of cutting-edge digital print technologies at Salon C!Print (4 – 6 February, Lyon, France). This will include the first showing in France of the company’s brand-new SWJ-320EA large format solvent printer, JFX200-2513 EX large flatbed UV inkjet printer and two models of the recently launched Plus series.

Visitors to the Mimaki booth (2L22) will experience the extensive business-enhancing applications possible with the company’s range of sign graphics, industrial products and textiles printers. Crucially, these printing platforms are designed to enable large format print service providers to achieve unparalleled flexibility and enhanced application opportunities for increased and diversified business growth. Mimaki will have eight printers in operation at the exhibition, with highlights including:

• Mimaki JFX200-2513 EX: A large flatbed UV inkjet printer.
• Mimaki SWJ-320EA: A super-wide solvent printer.
• JV300-160 Plus: A next-generation eco-solvent/sublimation printer.
• CG-160FXll Plus: An advanced multi-cutting plotter.

“At Salon C!Print Mimaki will confirm its leading role as a strong, customer- and service-oriented technology provider to the visual communication industry,” says Danna Drion, Marketing Manager at Mimaki EMEA. “We have a fantastic range of ground breaking, advanced print solutions to showcase on our booth, together with an incredibly comprehensive range of applications in different markets. Our aim is to attract visitors to the foremost print show in France with printing technologies and application opportunities that are relevant to them and their businesses, and also stimulate new ideas,” concludes Drion.

“Authenticity wins: climbing business in a sustainable way” – the discussion targeted the importance of communication and transparency for today’s industry, promoting responsibility and innovation.

A selection of 26 fashion industry top players to discuss how digitalization is impacting companies’ value, one of the most important parameter to be considered when talking about business. This was the fifth edition of the CEO Roundtable, promoted by Fashion and eBusiness, which took place on November 7th at Palazzo Parigi, Milan.

The denim ingredient brand ISKO, always first in line when it comes to supporting the industry in the development of best practices, was among the event’s main partners. The company shared its long-standing and well-established commitment to Responsible Innovation™, taking part in a panel tackling new models to blend together authenticity and innovation and thus responsibly succeed in business.

Fashion Magazine CEO&Editor-in-chief Marc Sondermann hosted the discussion, which started at 9.20 a.m. and involved Elena Faleschini, ISKO Global Field Marketing Manager, along with Nicolas Bargi, Save the Duck Founder&CEO, Francesca Toninato, 7 For All Mankind CEO and Stefano Modellini, Diana E-commerce Corporation Founder&CEO.

• Growing demand for natural fabrics and blends driving Brodelec business growth

September 25th, 2019, Rosh Ha’ayn, Israel – Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, announced that Orleans, France-based Brodelec has installed the country’s first-ever Kornit Presto S system for roll-to-roll, pigment-based digital textile printing.

This installation will enable the multiservice marking brand to expand their business further into customized décor and on-demand fashion.

Brodelec has partnered with Kornit for over a decade and owns several direct-to-garment print systems. Based on demand for natural fabrics and blends in the home décor and fashion markets, they are now expanding their offerings to include bespoke direct-to-fabric services.

Brodelec chose the Kornit Presto S as it is the only single-step solution and therefore the fastest route from design to finished product, making it the most efficient and eco-friendly fabric printing solution in France today.

Lectra announces the signing of an agreement with the shareholders of the Belgium company Retviews to acquire 100% of capital and voting rights.

Founded in 2017, Retviews has developed an innovative technological offer that enables fashion brands to analyze real-time market data, in order to increase their sales and margins. Today, more than 30 brands use Retviews in France and Belgium.

STAMFORD, Conn. – At this year's Paris Airshow [Le Bourget, June 17-23] Hexcel will promote a range of carbon fibers and composite materials used to manufacture high-performance weight-saving structures in civil aircraft, engines, helicopters, and space applications.

Visitors to the Hexcel stand will see an Integrated Wing Panel demonstrator and an I-beam, both made with HiTape® carbon fiber reinforcements. HiTape® dry carbon reinforcements were developed for the automated lay-up of preforms and to complement a new generation of HiFlow™ resin systems, producing high-quality aerospace structures using the resin infusion process. The reinforcements incorporate a toughening veil to enhance mechanical properties and meet the structural requirements for aerospace parts. The I-Beam was manufactured using C-RTM (Compression Resin Transfer Molding) and was injected with Hexcel’s RTM6 resin in a process taking less than five minutes.

Hexcel honeycomb saves weight and enhances stiffness in composite structures, and the company provides a range of engineered core solutions that enable highly contoured parts with precision profiling to be produced to exact customer specifications. A sample part made from aluminum FlexCore® that is CNC machined on both sides and formed and stabilized with both peel ply and flyaway layers of stabilization will be on display.

Another honeycomb innovation is Hexcel’s Acousti-Cap® broadband noise-reducing honeycomb that significantly improves acoustic absorption in aircraft engine nacelles. The acoustic treatment may be positioned at a consistent depth and resistance within the core or can be placed in a pattern of varying depths and/or resistances (Multi-Degrees of Freedom and 3 Degrees Of Freedom), offering an acoustic liner that is precisely tuned to the engine operating conditions. These technologies have been tested at NASA on a full engine test rig and meet all 16 design conditions without trade-offs.
Another Hexcel technology to benefit aircraft engines is HexShield™ honeycomb which provides high-temperature resistance in nacelles. By inserting a thermally resistant material into honeycomb cells, Hexcel provides a core product with unique heat-shielding capabilities that allows for the potential reuse of material after a fire.

With 50 years of experience behind its comprehensive range of high-strength, high-strain PAN-based carbon fibers, Hexcel continues to innovate and is introducing two new fibers to its portfolio. HexTow® HM50 combines high modulus and high tensile strength, making it ideal for commercial and defense aircraft and engines. HexTow® 85 was developed specifically to replace rayon-based carbon fiber for ablative applications.

Another area of expertise that uses HexTow® carbon fiber is additive manufacturing, where Hexcel uses PEKK ultrahigh performance polymers and HexAM™ technology to manufacture carbon reinforced 3D printed parts. This innovative process provides a weight-saving solution for intricate parts in highly demanding aerospace, satellite and defense applications. HexPEKK™ structures offer significant weight, cost and time-to-market reductions, replacing traditional cast or machined metallic parts with a new technology.

Later this year Hexcel will open a joint research and development laboratory in Les Avenières (Isère), France with Arkema to develop carbon fiber-reinforced thermoplastic prepreg tapes for aerospace, space and defense applications. A spool of thermoplastic prepreg tape will be on display on Hexcel’s stand to showcase this cost-effective technology that enables lightweight parts to be produced in faster production cycles for future generations of aircraft.

Hexcel’s stand is located next to Hexcel’s official distributor for aerospace products, Groupe Gazechim Composites. In 2018, Hexcel and Gazechim formed a joint venture, HexCut Services, to provide aerospace and defense customers with customized kitting services that include Hexcel’s innovative carbon fiber prepreg, fabrics and adhesives. Pre-cut kits save customers time and investment, reduce inventory and minimize material losses through scrap reduction.

JEC WORLD 2019 closed successfully on Thursday, March 14, after three intense days of innovation, networking and knowledge sharing. "With more than 112 participating countries and 27 national pavilions, JEC World – the place where the world of Composites meets – gathered the key players of the industry and their representatives, as illustrated by the premiere meeting of the global and European industry associations. On top of that, the show highlighted the dynamic ecosystems of composite materials in France, Turkey as well as in the Netherlands, thanks to the special visit in Paris and an active participation of their companies, officials and government bodies,” Adeline Larroque, Show director JEC World explains.
JEC World organizers created special tracks, displays and conference programs dedicated to the specific audience of Aerospace, Automotive and Construction sectors, for everyone to better understand the benefits offered by Composites in these applications.

Hexcel and Arkema have announced that they will open a joint research and development laboratory in Les Avenières (Isère), France in April.

This follows the companies’ previous announcement in March 2018 that they were forming a strategic alliance to develop thermoplastic composite solutions for the aerospace sector, combining the expertise of Hexcel in carbon fiber and Arkema in PEKK.

The companies’ objective at this new lab is to develop carbon fiber-reinforced thermoplastic prepreg tapes to enable lightweight parts to be produced for future generations of aircraft. These solutions will provide lightweight and cost effective technologies including faster production cycles for customers in the aerospace and the space and defense sectors.

Thanks to Hexcel and Arkema’s close collaboration, an initial industrial pilot line will be installed in the new lab in the coming weeks. The companies expect to start supplying carbon/thermoplastic UD tapes from this pilot line to customers for evaluation beginning in Q3 2019.