Textination Newsline

• Projects planned for USD 2.3 billion by 2020
• Doubling of exports of finished products strived

Tashkent (GTAI) - The textiles and clothing industry of Uzbekistan remains one of the most important investment and cooperation sectors for foreign companies. A new expansion program for the period 2017 to 2020 provides for the implementation of 140 projects. The expected inflow of capital to the industry in a value of up to USD 2.3 billion is planned to account for about half of the foreign investment.

The textile and clothing industry should be expanded more than ever into an important export part of the central Asian republic. The specific activities for the targeted doubling of exports by 2020 versus 2016 are listed in the presidential regulation "On the program of measures for the further development of the textile, clothing and tricot industry 2017 to 2020" of December 21st 2016.

Full domestic processing of cotton fibers strived

With an annual output of 3.4 million tons of raw cotton and 1.1 million tons of cotton fibers, Uzbekistan is one of the world's six largest cotton producers. The production of 25,800 tons of cocoons is also considerable high (an average figure for 2012 to 2015). In the first half of 2016 55% of the produced cotton fibers were further locally processed. According to the program this rate should rise to 100% by 2020. It is also planned to reduce the amount of cotton yarn in textile exports in favor of more refined cotton products. Yarn now stands for 53% of the value of exported finished textile products.

The plan is to expand the production of finished textile products until 2020 by 120%, including 170% of yarn, 200% of finished tricot fabrics, 240% of finished yarn and clothing and 270% of hosiery. The share of finished goods in the textile and clothing industry is expected to increase from 47.0 to 65.5% and in export from 42.0 to 70.0%. The program also includes measures to adapt the Uzbek sector norms and standards   to the common international standard rules.

Supply and cooperation opportunities for 140 individually planned projects

Up to USD 2.3 billion shall be invested in 140 expansion and renewal projects by 2020, including complexes with a full value chain. Commercial banks or their investment companies which are providing loans for the co-financing of the projects may, depending on the project, acquire up to 100% of the capital stock of the new or modernized enterprises.

The main contact partner for the projects is the public shareholder company O'zbekyengilsanoat.  It owns 380 textile, clothing and tricot companies, as well as some silk processors, among of them many joint ventures. The company is comparable to a branch of the Ministry of Industry. It stands for a large part of the output and export of the Uzbek textile and clothing industry (estimation for 2016: about USD 1 billion).

Its tasks include the coordination and participation in investment projects. For example, all projects involving O'zbekyengilsanoat companies are subject to a technical review by the scientific and technical advice of the shareholder company. Import contracts for the needs of the projects are also subject to a review.   

Wide preferences for investors

Projects are flanked by several stimuli up to 1st January 2020. The state grants tariff preferences for the import of equipment, complements and spare parts, an exemption from the profit and wealth tax as well as from the duty to the central road fund. Export-oriented manufacturers of finished cotton-, blended-  and silk-fabrics-, finished clothing and tricots, head coverings, stockings and textile gallantry goods will be freed from the mandatory exchange of the foreign exchange in Uzbekistan Sum. Imports of raw materials, auxiliaries and materials can be promoted with customs clearance extension of up to 60 days.

The new central foreign trade company Ustextilexport has been founded to act as a service provider for the needs of all country-based industry players, including small businesses. This applies both to the exploitation of foreign markets, the supply of already established trading houses for textiles and clothing abroad with Uzbek products as well as to the participation in the procurement of technologies and materials for the domestic textile and clothing industry.

The current goals for the expansion of the textile and clothing industry are all rather too ambitious. Medium-term industry programs have already been launched in previous years. Despite some reached progress, the results have been rather sparse. The output and the effectiveness of the production remained far behind the targets. Already in 2012, 407,000 tons of cotton yarn, 350 million square meters of cotton fabrics and 273 million pieces of clothing should have been produced. The for 2012 targeted exports of USD 1.5 billion were also missed in 2016 (a good USD 1.0 billion).

The reasons for this are complex. Too little has been invested so far in the modernization of the existing enterprises. The companies complain about bottlenecks in the provisioning of working capital, in the supply of energy and, above all, in the exchange of foreign exchange for the procurement of imports (spare parts, auxiliary materials, etc.). Another obstacle is the over-regulation of import and export transactions.

Nevertheless, the industry remains a profitable business field for foreign companies. In addition, the signs are good for improving the business environment in the country. After the new President Shawkat Mirsijojew took office in December 2016, a positive mood goes through the country. First regulations for more entrepreneurial freedoms have already been adopted. A whole bunch of further measures is in sight.

1) In addition to the textile and clothing industry, the light industry comprises the sectors of cotton ginning and production of leather goods / shoes;
2) About two-thirds of the output is attributable to the textile and clothing sector;
3) Investments in the sectors cotton ginning, carpets and leather / leather products are less than 10% of the annually in the light industry invested capital.

Source: State Statistics Committee, Tashkent

Contacts
GAK O´zbekyengilsanoat (Staatliche Aktionärsgesellschaft O´zbekyengilsanoat)
ul. Bobura 45, 100100 Taschkent/Republik Usbekistan
Contact personIlchom Haydarov, Vorsitzender der GAK O´zbekengilsanoat; Schochruch Rachimow, manager investment department
Tel.: 00998 71/239 17 11, -253 93 54, -239 17 11, -253 93 58 (administration for investment projects), Fax: -253 93 58, -56 04 (department fir investment)
E-Mail: info@engilsanoat.uz, info@legprom.uz, Internet: http://www.engilsanoat.uz, http://www.legprom.uz

• Techtextil and Texprocess present ‘Living in Space’ in cooperation with ESA and DLR 
• Nutrition, mobility, fashion and living: technical textiles make settlements in space possible

Beam me up, Scotty: a large amount of material has to be transported for a journey into space – and technical textiles account for a large proportion of them. Examples of the parts and products in which they are to be found will be on show at the ‘Living in Space’ exhibition during this year’s Techtextil und Texprocess (9 to 12 May 2017), which has been organised by Messe Frankfurt in cooperation with the European Space Agency (ESA) and the German Aerospace Centre (DLR). Among the exhibits to be seen are materials and technologies from Techtextil and Texprocess exhibitors in a ‘Material Gallery’, architecture for space by Ben van Berkel, space-inspired fashions and an original Mars Rover. And – even without having completed a dizzying astronaut training programme – visitors can take a journey through space to Mars via virtual-reality glasses.

“At the ‘Living in Space’ exhibition, Techtextil and Texprocess visitors can see examples of textile materials and processing technologies in an application-oriented setting. In cooperation with our partners and exhibitors, we have created an informative and entertaining area, the like of which has never been seen before at Techtextil and Texprocess”, explains Michael Jänecke, Brand Manager, Technical Textiles and Textile Processing, Messe Frankfurt. Given that technical textiles are to be found in almost every sphere of human life, the materials and processing technologies shown are oriented towards the ‘Architecture’, ‘Civilization’, ‘Clothing’ and ‘Mobility’ areas of application.

Ideal homes in space

Visitors can get an idea of how building in space could function at the ‘Architecture’ area curated by Stylepark architecture magazine. Lightweight construction and canopy specialist MDT-tex joined forces with star architect Ben van Berkel of the international UNStudio firm of architects to create a ‘Space Habitat’ especially for Techtextil. Comprising 60 individual modules, each of which is double twisted and under tension, the lightweight pavilion has an area of 40 square metres and consists of specially designed aluminium profiles covered with PTFE sheets. MDT-tex designed the fabric especially for the pavilion in an extremely light grammage without sacrificing its high-temperature resistance and technical properties.

Ultra-lightweight materials play a leading role in space travel because the lighter the space capsule’s load, the cheaper the transport. Reclining in comfortable seats, visitors to the Space Habitat can also travel to Mars using virtual-realist glasses and, at the same time, find out more about technical textiles and their processing in space.

Hightech-Fashion in orbit

No one likes to be too hot or too cold. Space-wear should not only protect the wearer from extreme temperatures but also regulate their body temperature, drain off moisture and be durable and easy to clean. All the better, then, if it also looks good, as shown by the designs in the ‘Clothing’ segment of the exhibition. The ESMOD Fashion School from Berlin presents outfits made by students within the framework of the ‘Couture in Orbit’ project (2015/2016), which was organised by ESA and the London Science Museum. Additionally, the POLI.design centre of the Politecnico di Milano (Milan University) presents outfits from the followup project, ‘Fashion in Orbit’ under the scientific supervision of Annalisa Dominoni and the technical supervision of Benedetto Quaquaro in cooperation with ESA and garment manufacturer Colmar.

The Hohenstein Textile Institutes present two models from the Spacetex research project, within the framework of which astronaut Alexander Gerst tested the interaction of body, apparel and climate under conditions of weightlessness during the ‘Blue Dot’ mission. In this connection, the model, ‘Nostalgia’ by Linda Pfanzler (Lower Rhine University) reminds the wearer of the earth with an integrated library of fragrances. The suits of the ‘Dynamic Space’ collection by Rachel Kowalski (Pforzheim University) contain electrodes that stimulate important muscle groups under conditions of weightlessness. The outfits by Leyla Yalcin and Sena Isikal (AMD Düsseldorf) come from the ‘Lift off’ collection created in cooperation with Bremen-based silver-yarn manufacturer Statex. They include a sleeping bag for astronauts made from silver-coated textiles, which can also be used as an overall and protects the wearer from electro-magnetic radiation. Thanks to the silver threads, another garment, a raincoat reflects light and stores the wearer’s body heat.

Material Gallery: fibers for space

In addition to the exhibits at the special exhibition, around 40 Techtextil and Texprocess exhibitors offer ideas for fibre-based materials and processing technology suitable for use in space in a ‘Material Gallery’. For the ‘Civilization’ segment, they include spacer fabrics for growing vegetables, for ‘Mobility’ a carbon yarn, which was used to make a fairing for the solid-fuel booster rocket of the Ariane 6. The Material Gallery also shows fibre-composite structures made of carbon fibres, such as a robot arm, a whole-body suit that transmits the wearer’s movements to a 3D model in real-time, functional apparel textiles with flame-retardant, anti-bacterial and temperature-regulating properties, and membrane systems for ventilating aircraft.

Exhibits from ESA, DLR and Speyer Museum of Technology, including an original Mars Rover and space suits, make the exhibition an extraordinary experience. The exhibits are supplemented by impulse lectures by ESA experts for technology transfer throughout the fair.

• New outdoor trend: everyday adventures close to home, local adventures for everyone, microadventure
• expert Alastair Humphreys at the OutDoor

Everyday adventures for all, real outdoor experiences in your own backyard. The outdoor industry is well equipped to respond to this enthusiasm for getting out there. Microadventures are the future of the outdoor market and by no means detract from the particular authenticity and spirit of the outdoor industry. At this year’s OutDoor (18th to 21st June, 2017), this new outdoor trend will be an important issue for many market players. And Alastair Humphreys, England’s best-known microadventurer is giving a keynote address on the first day of the show.

Microadventures are mini adventures that fit in with everyday life. They are simple and achievable, inexpensive and accessible to everyone. They are not organised events where success is guaranteed, there is no right or wrong. Exploring the unfamiliar on your doorstep is the name of the game. Microadventures generally take place close to home and require neither special equipment, nor extensive preparation. It’s all about being spontaneous, having fun, interacting with different kinds of environments and people and fitting it all in with your everyday life. The only rule is: leave the car at home - because travelling by car blinkers your perspective.

Overnight outdoor adventures, wild camping, even if only for one night, is the inspiration behind it. Antje von Dewitz, Vaude CEO, sees two issues as particularly important: "The trend towards urbanisation is having a knock-on effect: microadventures are attractive to people, as they are easy to combine with busy, modern lives. And more importantly, normal people can enjoy these adventures - there is no element of the extreme or elitism.” As a mountain sports equipment provider with a broad offer, the southern German company is a good starting point for microadventures on foot or by bike, and also provides plenty of inspiration on its YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbtaTQrJfLEh3whO1V7601sjwNgsQZB4y.

Jack Wolfskin also recognises that microadventures are perfect for outdoor fans. "Why not hike to the source of a river?” the German outdoor equipper is challenging supporters. It encourages fans to upload their photos with the hashtag #jackwolfskin to its facebook or instagram page to share their experiences with the outdoor community. British brand, Mountain Equipment, organises a WildNight event where it encouraged enthusiasts to, "Pack your bivouac gear and spend the night outdoors. No tents, just you and the stars. Have your own WildNight microadventure, wherever and whenever you want to.” Country Manager Germany, Tom Strobel explains, "Microadventures mean experiencing something extraordinary, they are an enriching experience and a welcome break from everyday life.”

Short, simple adventures, where you don't need much outdoor equipment? That’s right, say manufacturers. "It doesn’t always have to be about big sales. If users are enjoying themselves, then that’s good for retailers and the industry. Outdoor activities don’t always have to be extreme, but they should help build a strong, positive connection to nature and be genuine experiences,” says Thomas Groeger, Deputy CEO of Scandinavian manufacturer Fjällräven. Microadventures do exactly this - and can also be shared via social networks - inspiring others in the process.

Microadventures are going to be an important issue at this year’s OutDoor show in Friedrichshafen. There are a number of reasons for this. The Outdoor industry is looking for new goals and new target groups, and wants to position itself more broadly. In addition, microadventures are a definite trend. They fit neatly with busy, modern lifestyles, are spontaneous, offer a real change of perspective and don’t need much specialist equipment. As such, they are accessible to all.
Alastair Humphreys, the adventurer credited with inventing the term microadventure will be delivering a keynote speech on day one of the OutDoor show, on Sunday the 18th June. The British explorer is a well-known adventurer. After spending years on grand adventures, including travelling around the world by bike, crossing deserts and icy wastes unsupported and climbing big mountains, he was made "Adventurer of the Year” by the National Geographic Association in 2012 for his microadventures in Great Britain. These small, unusual, local trips began and ended at his doorstep. While others claim that their nine-to-five jobs are the reason why they don’t move enough, Alastair Humphreys takes advantage of the hours before and after work to escape from the daily grind. His microadventures include simply heading off to spend the night out on a nearby hill and then heading straight into work the next morning. His motto: “There are so many new things to discover right on your doorstep.”

For more information, please visit: www.outdoor-show.de.

Destination Mauritius - rebuiding former relationsships

Island of dreams in the middle of the Indian ocean for some travellers neighbouring the last European outpost, French overseas department La Réunion, a destination for reliable production of textiles and apparel for the European, notably German fashion market, this is the spectrum
of associations that Mauritius evokes in the heads of people. Mauritius looks back on a long time experience in producing textiles and apparel since its independence from Britain in 1968. Republic since 1992 the group of islands is one of the very few stable democracies in Africa.

Arvind Radhakrishna, CEO of Enterprise Mauritius, the organiser of the Mauritius day, April 5, 2017 at Düsseldorf Fashion House II, gives it a strong regret that the relation between Mauritius and Germany, mainly based on knitwear, dating back in the early 70ies nearly came to an end. The amount of textile exports into Germany in 2015 was just about 30 million Euros and counting. Anyhow this does not represent the strength of the Mauritian apparel industry which is a hub in the region with own inland production completed by production plants on the neighbour island Madagascar, in South Africa and some even in Bangladesh to serve a lower price level, which cannot be achieved with Mauritian production itself. In 2015, domestic exports to Europe accounted for 40 %, USA: 24% and South Africa: 21%. Charming is the fact that the delivery of Mauritian goods is duty free.

Strong support by the government

Interested buyers are heartily invited to come and see with their own eyes what the Mauritian textile and apparel industry can offer. This industry is one of the strong pillars of the gross domestic output. Others are tourism and - up and coming - the lapidary and jewellery industry. Traditional fields of production are spices, sugarcane products including rum or cosmetics.

To foster textiles and apparel exports the government sponsors airfreight costs by 40%, part of a holistic program in the speed to market scheme. To compare the benefits of Mauritius as a sourcing destination compared for example with China, besides the shorter distance, is that the minimum order quantities per style are much smaller than in China, the quality standard is high, the social compliance is given. Mauritian companies must spend 1% of their gains for Corporate Social Responsibility – CSR projects. Certificates such as BSCI, SA8000 or WRAP are common. Free entry to the EU market is guaranteed by the EU partnership agreement. And - a point that should not be neglected - most of the companies offer creative services executed by their inhouse design departments or people. This makes it clearer why the textile and apparel industry had been a strong engine for economic growth in Mauritius.

Main products are: T-Shirts, Polo Shirts, Shirts, Trousers & Denim, Pullovers & Cardigans, Formal Suits, Beachwear & Underwear, and Childrenswear etc. Main material used: cotton and its blends. There is a strong focus on knitted fabrics and jerseys of all kind paired with woven denims. The price segment of Mauritian clothing mainly ranges in the lower middle range. There is a high awareness for sustainability. The exporting companies aim to use eco-friendly substances in resources saving production processes. Laser technology for effects on denim is widely in use.

A look to the companies presenting

• FINE TEXTILES LTD
  Contact: Mamade Nohur 
  Tel.: +230 2661092/57321079
  E-mail: finetextileltd@gmail.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Polo shirts/T-shirts/Sweat shirts
  Minimum order: 600 pcs. per colour
  Fine Textiles mostly produce menswear. They distribute their garments under own label M*RIYANO and private label for their customers. The own label is calculated to compete with the Chinese market. Time from sample to delivery takes about 5 to 6 weeks.

• FIREMOUNT TEXTILES LTD / FM DENIM LTD
  Contact: Sangeeta Gobin
  Tel.: +230 2075836
  Email: sangeeta@firemount.mu
  Website: www.firemount.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim fabrics & Denim and Twill Jeans pants/Jackets/shirts/Shorts/Dresses
  Minimum order: 6000-7000 yd. fabric or 2500-3000 pcs. of jeans per order
  Certifications: WRAP
  The company is fully vertical and the biggest supplier of apparel in Mauritius, still growing, looking for direct relations to retailers. Due to the latest technologies available, the company aims to fulfil the needs for sustainable production. Stretch, even power stretch is used in nearly every jeans style.

• TEX KNITS LTD
  Contact: Suresh Radha
  Tel.: +230 2865577
  Email: info@texinternational.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim trousers, jackets, shirts etc. /Knitted garments for ladies, men and children
  Minimum order: 800 pcs. per style/colour
  Certifications: Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit (SMETA)
  The knits company is part of a group offering garments in a broad range. To serve the UK market they run an office in London. The company puts a strong focus on design input for the international clients. Production plants in Madagascar and Bangladesh serves different price ranges.

• PALMAR LTEE
  Contacts: Yannick Capiron (Knits), Genevieve Marie Figaro (Denim)
  Tel.: +230 401 7000
  Email: y.capiron@palmar.intnet.mu; gfigaro@palmar.intnet.mu
  Type: CMT & Final Product
  Products: Jeans, Chinos, Shorts, Dresses, Skirts for kids, Women & Men
  Minimum order: 600 pcs. for jerseys; 800 pcs. for jeans
  Over two thirds of the production is for menswear. The company is a family business which takes special interest in sustainable and resources saving production. The knitting department is fully
  vertically integrated. A fair trade line is being offered, pure organic is in development.Contact: Ranil Gunasekara
  Tel.: +230 4130034
  Email: camdenimltd@gmail.com
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Denim jeans for men, women, children and toddlers
  Minimum order: 1200 per style
  The company solely works for private labels. The main market until now is South Africa. The production is going to be shifted to a higher percentage of eco-friendly production, representing 17% for the time being. Prices range in the upper middle segment.

• TARA KNITWEAR LTD
  Contact: Fabiola Law
  Tel.: +230 2123715/52553621
  Email: fabiolalaw@taragroup.intnet.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: T-shirt, polo shirt, sweat shirt, hoody, short, pant, skirt, dress, baby grow, baby/kid swear accessories (beanie, bootie, blanket, sleeping bag, headband), sleepwear, loungewear
  Minimum order: Basic styles: 4000 units. Fancy styles: 1000-2000 units
  Certifications: BSCI
  Tara is very design oriented with a big in house design department open for design services to customers too. The company's organisation is vertically integrated. Modern equipment such as the
  Eton Mover system enables the company to react fast and operate Fast Track orders too.

• BEACHWEAR EXPORTS
  Contact: Mr. G.M Toolsee
  Tel.: +230 4545600
  Email: girdhar@beachwear.intnet.mu/beachwear@intnet.mu
  Type: Final Product
  Products: Swimwear and related products
  Minimum order: 300-500 units per style
  Certification: BSCI, SMETA, SEDEX
  All production is for private label. The company features as the leading supplier of swim and beach wear in Mauritius. Well known international brands are customers from US to Europe, mainly in Italy, France and UK as well as South Africa and Zimbabwe.

PLANNED ABOLITION OF EU IMPORT QUOTAS ALLOWS MORE FOREIGN COMMITMENTS

Minsk (GTAI) - The textile and clothing industry of the Republic of Belarus faces great challenges. It has to become more efficient, should produce more market-orientated and make greater use of its export potential. The sector has great hopes on the by the European Union planned abolition of quotas for Belarusian textiles and clothing products. There are then more than ever good opportunities for the subcontracting finishing process.

The textile and clothing industry has traditionally been one of the most important sectors of the manufacturing industry in the Republic of Belarus. As a result of the sharp decline of the local purchasing power and of the main export market Russia, the sector has suffered a severe setback in the years 2013 to 2015. Since the second half of 2016 it is on an upswing again. According to preliminary data, the output has risen in 2016 by 4.6% to EUR 1.41 billion compared to 2015. Produced were 146.8 million sqm. of fabrics, 40.4 million pieces of knitwear, 147.0 million pairs of stockings and 19.9 million sqm. of carpet products.

Nevertheless the textile and clothing industry continues to suffer from a weak capacity utilization, an inadequate management and marketing as well as from a considerable backlog in the technological renewal of the equipment park. The implementation of an industry support program for the period from 2016 to 2020 should provide for a remedy. The program comes from the Belarussian State Group for production and sale of goods of the light industry Bellegprom. (http://www.bellegprom.by).

Sector program shows planned projects until 2020

Under the umbrella of the State Group 17 textile, 12 knitting and 21 garment companies are active. With an output of just under USD 0.9 billion, these manufacturers were involved with nearly three-fifths of the total output of the Belarusian textile and clothing industry in 2015. The companies have exported goods for nearly USD 500 million in 2015. The main customer was Russia (USD 357 million). The investments of the Bellegprom companies are expected to reach a volume of at least EUR 250 million in the years 2017 to 2020.

The envisaged projects for this period include:

• the continuation of the comprehensive modernization of the Orschaer linen combine Orscha (production of linen yarn, -fabrics and finished products, processing of imported raw materials);
• technological renewal in the company OAO Mogotex, Mahiljou / Mogilew (spinning and textile finishing);
• the development and production of new competitive wool and wool blended fabrics in the company OAO Kamwol, Minsk;
• the expansion of the production of hosiery, including an enlargement of the assortment of medical hosiery in the company SOOO Conte Spa, Grodno;
• the commencement of production of seamless underwear in the company OAO Kupalinka, Salihorsk and
• Investment in the production of fine thread Ajour-fabrics in OAO Switanak, Shodsina.

1)  Without regard to micro- and other small enterprises; at the end of 2015 225 textile and clothing companies were active in Belarus, the average number of employees in these companies was 58,800 persons per year;
2)  in terms of the national currency of Belarussian Ruble
Source: National Committee for Statistics, calculations by Trade & Invest in Germany.

In order to create complete value chains, it is envisaged to set up joint ventures between manufacturers of fabrics as well as producers of finished products. The Bellegprom Group is keen to focus the expansion potential on the production of linen fabrics and high-quality finished linen products.

Belarus is one of the world's five largest linen producers. For 2017 a volume of 55,000 tons is expected. In the year 2016 29 companies have processed flax straw into fibers. Of the in these factories installed 54 processing lines only ten are considered to be highly productive. According to the administration of the Mahiljou region, a Chinese investor wants to set up a factory in the region for the processing of flax for semi-finished and ready made goods in the near future.

Abolition of EU quotas planed

The EU plans to abolish the since 2010 existing autonomous quotas as well as the contingents for passive finishing processing for Belarus. The restrictions currently apply to a variety of textile products, including cotton and linen yarn as well as garments made out of cotton and woolen fabrics. Market observers agree: the abolition of the quotas with the related bureaucratic procedures would provide a solid basis for stimulating foreign investments in the Belarusian textile and clothing industry.

Belarus has many advantages: geographical proximity to the EU market, a well-developed infrastructure, long-standing industrial traditions, available production capacities, skilled labor and, last but not least, favorable labor costs. In a first phase of cooperation with Belarusian partners, the interest of foreign companies is likely to focus more on subcontracting. There are already successful projects that use the favorable framework conditions for this business model.   

The German Langheinrich Vertriebs GmbH, for example, produces high-quality table cloth and bed linen for the contract area in the small West-Belarussian town of Diwin (Kobryn district, Brest region). According to the director general of Langheinrich Konfektion GmbH, Walentina Paschkewitsch, the company, founded there in 2005, employs now between 90 and 120 employees depending on the order situation. Sales in 2016 amounted to around EUR 1 million. The in the company paid wages and the additional granted social packages are the guarantor of a very low fluctuation of the workforce. Among the companies from neighboring Lithuania, which are producing textiles and clothing in Belarus, the leading Baltic manufacturer of sportswear Audimas stands out.

With over 113,000 visitors and 2,368 exhibitors the largest EuroShop in its 50-year history

• Great international attendance confirms its special global position
• In focus: digitalisation, omnichannel and emotionalisation of the shopping experience 
• Accompanying forums very highly attended

After five days, on 9 March 2017 saw the world’s largest trade fair for retail investment requirements, EuroShop 2017, draw to a close in Düsseldorf with the best result in its 50-year history: the 2,368 exhibitors from 61 nations report unanimously on very good to excellent contacts and business deals. Furthermore, very lively post-fair business is anticipated. Over 113,000 visitors (round about 4% over the last event) came to the Rhine to gather information on the range of products, trends and concepts for retailers and their partners on display here in the 18 exhibition halls extending over 127,000 m² of net exhibition space.

Hans Werner Reinhard, Managing Director at Messe Düsseldorf, is delighted: “EuroShop 2017 has further exceeded all the top scores achieved at EuroShop 2014. At its anniversary event it was able to once again show how young and creative the sector and its trade fair are.”

The exhibitors across all exhibition areas spent months preparing for EuroShop 2017 so as to be able to meet the competition with convincing innovations. And they encountered an outstanding response: trade visitors were delighted with product variety and the level of innovation at the stands as well as with the excellent quality and great creativity of the stand presentations.

A total of 138 countries were represented on the visitor side. Commenting on this Reinhard said: “We could not be happier with the trade visitor breakdown. We are recording a constantly high level of demand from Germany and a significant rise in interest from abroad. Throughout the world it is known that EuroShop in Düsseldorf is the global No.1 trade show in the sector demonstrating what the future of retail looks like.”

Held every three years, EuroShop 2017 kicked off with a completely new concept. Its refined profile with seven clearly defined dimensions (POP Marketing, Expo & Event Marketing, Retail Technology, Lighting, Visual Merchandising, Shop Fitting & Store Design and Food Tech & Energy Management) went down well with exhibitors and visitors alike – because this meant exhibitors could be positioned in their optimum segment while visitors conveniently found the suppliers they needed according to area of interest.

The dominant themes at EuroShop 2017 were the continuing digitalisation in retail, tailor-made omnichannel solutions and emotionalisation of the shopping experience in the store.

Online retail is currently fuelling investment in physical stores in the sector. This is because competition from suppliers online means retailers have to make their stores ever more attractive. At the same time, the dovetailing of physical and online stores is generating new retail and interior design concepts. Modern information technology is becoming ever more important here.

“Customers expect both – on the one hand the shopping experience on site in the store and, on the other, delivery to their own front door. Conventional physical retail is now increasingly developing it online activities and large online retailers are looking more and more to opening their own stores. EuroShop has managed to bring both worlds together,” explained Michael Gerling, Managing Director of the EHI Retail Institute, adding: “Physical stores and online retail are growing ever closer together, which is why at EuroShop the exhibition segments of shop fitting and technology are increasingly merging.”

EuroShop 2017 also highlighted that the top priority for stores themselves was unadulterated emotionalisation! Storytelling was at the forefront of many concepts, solutions and products at EuroShop 2017. Whether it was architecture, design, lighting or the embedding of state-of-the-art media in the shop fitting, everything has to follow a joint dramaturgy to give customers that certain kick. So it comes as no surprise that visual merchandising is continuing to gain great significance in the custom design of retail spaces. Here retailers’ willingness to invest in Germany has virtually doubled, according to an EHI study presented at EuroShop.

However, retail is also investing heavily in LED technology and refrigeration technology. This was not just another result from the EHI study, it was also visible in the halls of the exhibition centre. Here energy saving and sustainability are top priorities for retailers – which is why EuroShop Special Ecopark with its accompanying forum met with such a great response.

Overall, the accompanying lecture forums on the different EuroShop dimensions were avidly attended and many EuroShop visitors took valuable ideas home with them from the international line-up of practicefocused lectures, be this from the Architecture & Design Forum, the EuroCIS Forum, the Omnichannel Forum, the POPAI Forum or the Expo & Event Forum.

The next EuroShop will be held in Düsseldorf from 16 to 20 February 2020 and the next EuroCIS, as an annual event focusing on retail technology themes, will already run from 27 February to 1 March 2018.

• No longer just milk powder demanded 
• Internet important sales channel

The easing of the one-child policy in China will probably not bring the expected baby boom. Nevertheless, the market for baby products is very interesting for foreign suppliers. Because Chinese parents trust these more than domestic products and they are willing to spend money on imports. After this has been already the case with milk powder, now household appliances, furniture, care products for babies and expectant mothers are in the focus. The internet is very important as a sales channel.

Between 17.5 million and 21 million babies are expected to be born every year in China, according to the forecasts of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) within the next five years. This provides a large market for products needed for baby care and for pregnant women. Also baby seats for cars, prams and furniture from abroad are being sought as well.

According to iResearch market research the total sales of products for pregnant women, mothers and babies amounted to RMB 2.3 billion in 2015. (approximately USD 360 billion; 1 USD = RMB 6.39 as an annual average). The growth rate of 25% is expected to weaken in the future, but the demand is still growing strongly. Despite the fact that the birth rates are hardly rising, the "little emperors" are pampered with pleasure. Quality and security promises are the decisive factor for foreign products in the urban middle class.

Quality and safety speak for foreign products 

The share of sales thru the Internet is steadily growing. More than 15% of purchases for the little Chinese are already made via the network. By 2018 the proportion is expected to grow to 23%. This is what market analysts have found out together with the second-largest Chinese online portal JD.com. Furthermore, the per capita purchases are highest in the prosperous coastal provinces. But, for example, mothers in Sichuan in the south-west also spend over RMB 1,000 per year for their offspring.

With China's size, new brands hardly can accomplish a successful market appearance. But the Internet provides a valuable platform and is used by expectant mothers to get information and also to purchase. Leading are the platforms of the Alibaba Group, for example Tmall and the competitor JD.com. There are also specialized shopping portals such as bleibi.com, mia.com and gou.com, as well as social media channels such as WeChat and Internet forums for expectant mothers (e.g. mama.cn or Babytree).

*) from 2016 forecasts
Source: iResearch, JD.com

Alibaba announced in its financial statement about cross-border Internet shopping for 2016, that baby products are already the third largest import category. In recent years this segment has grown considerably, in 2016 imported goods stood already for more than one-fifth of baby products sold on the Tmall and Taobao platforms.

Cross-border trade in baby products is booming

While in the past foreign milk powder brands were in high demand, now bottles, baby seats and care products for mother and child are now in the focus of online shoppers. Chinese milk powder still enjoys little confidence following a large scandal with contaminated milk powder in 2008.

The online trade however also was overshadowed in 2016 by scandals involving counterfeit products, mainly re-packaged milk powder came into circulation. The government therefore is watching the boom in overseas e-commerce with mixed feelings and consumers are becoming more cautious.

In recent years’ diapers, also have been ordered especially from abroad (especially from Japan). While these two categories continue to account for more than half of the sales, baby bottles and child seats experienced explosive growth in 2016. In addition, the mothers like to order cosmetics and personal hygiene, which will not hurt the growing life. This applies in particular to natural cosmetics.

In 2016 the leading countries of origin for online imports were Japan (19.3%), USA (18.3%) and Korea Rep. (13.6%). But Germany was already on fourth place with 8.0%. Particularly popular with "made in Germany" were kitchen equipment (including kitchen appliances), milk powder, baby food and food supplements.

*) HSPos. 9619 Sanitary napkins, tampons, diapers for toddlers;
Source: Chinese Custom

*) HSPos. 1901.10;
Source: Chinese Custom

7 to 9 February 2017 saw the last GDS being held on the premises of Messe Düsseldorf. This was the 123rd edition of the tradition-rich event. Since Tuesday afternoon we have also known something else for sure, too: not only the organiser and venue will change but also the name. The Igedo Company will present its shoe trade show at Areal Böhler as Gallery SHOES.

In keeping with this “passing of the baton” the evening event of GDS was also held at Areal Böhler on the first day of the trade show. Speaking before many representatives of the shoe sector, Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, President & CEO of Messe Düsseldorf, used the opportunity to acknowledge the efforts by the GDS team: “Kirstin Deutelmoser and her team have undertaken extraordinary efforts over the years and introduced innovations into the shoe shows time and again. And even the last event was designed with full professionalism and provided visitors with a comprehensive overview of the market. My thanks also go to the sector: GDS only managed to remain such an outstanding meeting point for decades on end thanks to the support from trade and industry. I wish the Igedo Company the best of success for its new concept.”

During the press conference on the first day of the trade show Kirstin Deutelmoser, Director of GDS and tag it!, referred to GDS’ longstanding tradition on the one hand, and the fundamental changes occurring in the footwear sector, on the other: “Around the turn of the millennium GDS registered most visitors. People came to Düsseldorf to discover the new collections and – just as importantly – to network.
But over the past few years the world started turning faster. New players entered the market. The retailscape experienced constant change. And since trade shows are also always mirror images of the market this extreme dynamism within the footwear sector also impacted GDS.
Its own history proved a burden rather than a benefit: regardless of how much you alter a GDS – it will always be measured by its own most successful edition.
We therefore decided it was time for a complete “re-boot”; and to create something new you have to be free of existing structures and traditions. This is why we will hand over the shoe trade show after this GDS to the Igedo Company thereby enabling a complete re-start with completely new structures and signals.
I thank all of those who have accompanied and supported us over so many decades – especially our customers, exhibitors and visitors alike, the many partners of GDS and my great team.
I wish the Igedo Company and Ulrike Kähler, in particular, great success with the new format. And my particular hope is that the sector will make use of the opportunities that come with the re-launch of a footwear trade show.”

GDS with Powerful Farewell Programme

The last GDS offered visitors a comprehensive range of information. 600 brands presented their new collections and the trade show had prepared all the trends of relevance to the 2017/18 Autumn/Winter season for retailers offering concrete services for purchasing and merchandising with the GDS Trend Talks, Trend Codes and Trend Spots.
A special focus for coming Autumn/Winter are sturdy laced and biker boots. Weather permitting, futurist sneakers will also be determining the look on our streets – either in clean white or with prints, another trend theme displayed by many exhibitors.

The talks delivered by the Innovation and Education Institute SLEM headquartered in the Netherlands revolved around manufacturing rather than design. Visitors learnt which technologies will change the future of footwear production.

Alain-Fabien Delon (22), son of legendary actor Alain Delon, caused one last flurry of camera flashes at GDS, when he strolled through the STUDIO Halls during the Press Walk and browsed the latest men’s styles. The exhibitors befittingly used GDS as a stage to present their brands with catwalk shows or dance performances. 

Fashion bloggers and influencers made sure the new footwear trends were also shared on social media. How this actually works was illustrated in detail to interested retailers and manufacturers at the Social Media Consulting sessions.

The first Gallery SHOES will be held from 27 to 29 August 2017. Relevant details will be published at www.igedo.com.

Living in Space: special event at Techtextil showcases textile processing technologies for the space industry: Some four months before the start of Texprocess (9 to 12 May 2017), the leading international trade fair for processing textile and flexible materials reports the highest number of registrations in its history and thus continues its pattern of growth. Even now, more floor space has been booked than the previous edition had in total. “It is well worth our while continually developing Texprocess further, with regard to the technologies and processes on display, the hall layout and the complementary programme. With this fourth edition, Texprocess is now firmly established in the marketplace and is attracting other market leaders in the sector to Frankfurt,” says Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt.

Texprocess reports growing numbers of companies signing up, particularly in the CAD/CAM and Cutting, Making, Trimming (CMT) product groups. Technologies and material for Sewing, Joining and Fastening are growing steadily, too.

Among the companies that have already signed up are: Amann, Astas, assyst/Human Solutions, Barudan, Brother, bullmer, Caron Technology, Dürkopp Adler, Epson, Filiz Makina, Gemini CAD Systems, Gerber Technology, Gütermann, Juki, Kuris Spezialmaschinen, MACPI, Malkan, Mitsubishi, Morgan Tecnica, Pfaff, Serkon Tekstil Makina, SMRE, Strima, Tajima, Teseo, Tetas, Veit, Zünd.
The range of products at Texprocess once again covers all stages in the value-creation chain for textile goods, from design, IT, cutting out, sewing, seaming, embroidery and knitting to finishing, textile printing and logistics.

Change in placement for CAD/CAM and Cutting, Making, Trimming
To make the profiles of Techtextil and Texprocess even sharper, the bonding and separating technology, CMT (Cutting, Making, Trimming), CAD/CAM and printing product segments will be concentrated together at Texprocess in hall 4.0. Thus, visitors will find Techtextil exhibitors from these segments at Texprocess. These product groups will be deleted from the Techtextil nomenclature.
Apart from this change, the overall concept behind the halls at the previous event will be retained: trade visitors will find Design, IT, CAD/CAM, CMT and Printing as well as the special IT@Texprocess section in hall 4.0. Exhibitors of machines and accessories for sewing and seaming will be presenting their products in hall 5.0 and 5.1; and hall 6.0 will showcase embroidery technology, together with finishing techniques and logistics for textiles.

The technologies of textile processing for space travel
Both exhibitors and visitors at Texprocess will, this year, have the benefit of a rather special experience at the show: under the heading 'Living in Space', Techtextil will be showcasing the wide variety of applications for technical textiles in space travel, together with the processing involved. This is a cooperative venture between Techtextil, The European Space Agency (ESA) and the German Aerospace Centre (DLR). Close to the location for, amongst others, exhibitors of functional apparel textiles in Hall 6.1, and based on the areas of application for technical textiles, a special, interactive area is to be built to display, with the help of four thematic sections, the high-tech textiles and textile processing technologies that have emerged from and for space travel. The highlight of this area is a virtual-reality experience in which visitors to Techtextil and Texprocess get to go on a virtual journey through the universe, where they will learn about the application of technical textiles in space travel and the processing required to make them.

Complementary programme with focus on Digital Printing and international Innovative Apparel Show
Digital Printing will be one the thematic focusses of the Texprocess complimentary programme. The sector's information service, the World Textile Information Network (WtiN) will, for the first time, be organising the European Digital Textile Conference at Texprocess. The conference will centre round technologies for digital printing on textiles and will be held on Wednesday 10 May in the Saal Europa in hall 4.0.
And digital printing on textiles will also be taken up as a topic in a dedicated series of lectures forming part of the Texprocess Forum. The forum offers, in hall 6.0, expert lectures on current issues in the sector, on all days of the trade fair. For the first time, the programme will have been designed jointly by three partners: the Dialog Textil-Bekleidung (DTB), die International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the World Textile Information Network (WTiN).

Following on from the success of its first edition, the Innovative Apparel Show is to be continued and set on an international footing. For the first time, there will be, as well as a German university, three European universities / colleges from outside Germany, showcasing, on the catwalk, their fashion designs from functional textiles and the processing stages that go into making them. The show will take place on all days of the trade fair. The participating universities / colleges are: Accademia Italiana, Florence / Italy; ESAD College of Art and Design, Matosinhos / Portugal; Esmod Paris/France, and the University of Trier / Germany. The young designers will be displaying designs relating to the three key themes of 'Textile Effects', 'Creative Engineering' and 'Smart Fashion'. Visitors will be able to vote for the public's award throughout the duration of the trade fair and the award will be presented at the last fashion show.

With the Texprocess Innovation Award, Messe Frankfurt seeks, for the fourth time, to honour the best new technological developments in the field. Submissions for the award may be made up until 20 February. The competition is open both to exhibitors at Texprocess 2017 and to other companies, institutes, universities, colleges and private individuals, who are not otherwise exhibiting at the fair. The awards in the various categories will be presented during the joint opening ceremony for Texprocess und Techtextil, on 9 May 2017. At the same time, there will be a special display area in Hall 4.0, showcasing all the prize-winning products at Texprocess.

Visitors will, once again, find many new IT solutions for the apparel industry in the IT@Texprocess section in Hall 4.0, where exhibitors will be presenting product life-cycle management systems (PLM), 'Cloud' applications and 3D CAD systems, which make it possible to create tailor-made clothes in real time and without the need for a Fitting.

Sewing and apparel-making technology record significant rise in Sales According to information provided by the Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies section of the VDMA (Association of German machinery and plant manufacturers), conceptual partner of Texprocess, the German sewing and apparel-technology industry achieved an increase in turnover of 15.9 percent compared to the previous year in the period from January to October. “With export sales of € 523 million, Germany is in third place amongst exporting nations worldwide, behind China and Japan,” observes Elgar Straub, General Manager of the VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies Association. “Our member companies are outstandingly well placed amongst the international competition. Above all, that is because they are continually developing and innovating. The individualisation of apparel, the digitalisation of the value creation chain and new technologies, such as digital printing and sustainable processing technologies, are currently at the heart of our members' planning for innovation.”

Texprocess will again be taking place in parallel to Techtextil, leading international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens (also from 9 to 12 May 2017). In all, 1,662 exhibitors from 54 different countries attended Texprocess and Techtextil in 2015, together with a total of 42,000 trade visitors. Over 13,300 of them came to see Texprocess. Added to that, there were around 7,600 additional visitors, who came across from the concurrently held Techtextil.

• Matchmaking at the trade fair: exhibitors and visitors highlight the quality of business contacts made
• Celebrity guests and star designers go on a textile tour of discovery
   

Inspiring, touch-focused and close to the industry: Heimtextil finished last Friday after four successful trade fair days in Frankfurt am Main. In spite of the snow, ice and storms, particularly on the first and last days of the trade fair, almost 70,000 trade visitors (2016: 68,277) from across the world attended the leading trade fair for home and contract textiles and were won over by quality and variety of the exhibited products as well as the trends of the new season. Growth was driven primarily by Brazil, China, the United Kingdom, Italy, Japan, Russia, the USA and United Arab Emirates. A total of 2963 exhibitors from 67 countries (2016: 2864) presented their new textile products and designs across 20 halls and appeared to be highly satisfied by the orders they received and business contacts they made. Detlef Braun, CEO of Messe Frankfurt, highlighted the positives following the end of the trade fair: “The figures speak for themselves: Heimtextil grew

once again in 2017 in terms of its visitor and exhibitor numbers. But it’s no longer about quantity and hasn’t been for a long time. I am especially pleased about the high quality of the products exhibited as well as the intensity of discussions between purchasers and exhibitors. Frankfurt is the international meeting place and beating textile heart of the interiors industry.”
Also positive: overall, visitors consider the sector’s economy to be in a better place even than last year. Visitors from Germany in particular consider the situation to be good (40 per cent).
“We returned to Heimtextil at the right time: over the past few days, we have been successful in positioning our new profile and new product orientation”, says Andreas Klenk, CEO Saum & Viebahn. “The feedback from our visitors was thoroughly positive and we were able to acquire both export and domestic contacts. We will be leaving this Heimtextil with a good feeling and look forward to returning next year.”

Textile design: the eye feels too

It is not just the feel of a material that determines its appeal – something that was also obvious at Heimtextil with the great interest shown in textile design. The colourful fabrics and varied designs by well-known designers and young talent were very popular and attracted a lot of attention: “For me as a designer, Heimtextil is extremely interesting, in particular because I can see myself designing bed linen, pillows and other home textiles in future in addition to wallpaper”, says star designer Michael Michalsky, who presented his new wallpaper collection at the trade fair.
“At the world’s leading trade fair, competitors are present in great numbers. Here, I can experience marketing of products at close quarters and get direct feedback on my own new products.” And it was not just designers that showed great interest in the globally unique design offer at Heimtextil. Exhibiting companies also used the creative hotspot to acquire new designs for their upcoming collections.

Eva Padberg, Harald Glööckler and Michael Michalsky

The enthusiasm for beautiful and high-quality textiles not only brings trade visitors together, but also numerous celebrity guests. At the opening of Heimtextil, top model Eva Padberg talked with Detlef Braun about the trends of the coming season, the interest of end consumers in sustainability and

the common ground between fashion and interior design. She then used the opportunity to take a tour of the Theme Park trend area and the trade fair.
A meeting point for stars continued to be the Marburger Tapetenfabrik on the first day of the trade fair: Harald Glööckler presented his new collection “Glööckler Imperial” which bore the unmistakeable signature of the designer with its usual luxurious style. Musical accompaniment and a good atmosphere was provided by singer

Dynelle Rhodes from the Weather Girls as well as Frankfurt radio presenter and DJ Felix Moese. Designer Michael Michalsky also presented his new collection of wallpapers in person in cooperation with A.S. Création.

Trend towards more materiality

An end to bare walls and cold floors: home textiles are celebrating their comeback in private homes. Curtains, carpets and decorative cushions are decorating people’s own four walls and lending them a personal note. “We can also confirm the trend towards more materiality. In addition to our new wallpaper products, we have seen an increased interest from visitors in our new fabric collections”, says Andreas Zimmermann, CEO Zimmer + Rohde. This trend is boosting orders at Heimtextil: “The quality of visitors was very high: we met very high-quality, good international purchasers and excellent potential new customers. We are therefore very satisfied with our attendance at Heimtextil.”

Sleepinmg as a lifestyle

After nutrition and fitness, sleeping will be the next big lifestyle theme. This was also proven by the numerous innovations seen in the bed segment. Mediflow from Hamburg, for example, presented an improved version of its water pillow capable of full adjustments for firmness and supportive effect. Robert Kocher, European CEO of Mediflow: “This year, we had lots of new customers at our stand who had heard about us and wanted to know more about our products or even ordered them directly. Visitors primarily came from the Middle East, China, the eastern European region and Scandinavia. We also enjoyed intense discussions with American and German customers. This is also the great strength of Heimtextil. You’ve can shake hands with the world here. It is not just about sales, but also communication and establishing relationships or simply getting direct feedback on our products”. At the sleep campaign stand, visitors and exhibitors alike were able to inform themselves about

the four things that can influence sleep. Heimtextil will continue to focus on the topic of sleeping over the coming years.

The next Heimtextil, international trade fair for home and contract textiles, will take place from 9-12 January 2018 in Frankfurt am Main.